Treasures of Aromatic Literature-Joy of Fragrance by Mary Gladys Meredith Webb

Treasures of Aromatic Literature-Joy of Fragrance by Mary Gladys Meredith Webb

"Chests of fragrant medicinal balm
To work cool ointments for the griev├Ęd flesh."

AS the colour-blind slowly learn to distinguish shades of blue and green, so the scent-clogged may explore the almost unknown delight of fragrance; until they can disentangle the ravelled sweetness in the air. We know by the colour of her burden under what friendly roof the bee asked alms this morning – whether she begged in the brown hut of the figwort or the rosy pavilion of the willow herb. So when the wind comes along secret ways with the laugh of a naughty child who has found a treasure and will not tell of it, we know where he has been by the scents that cling to him like burrs to a truant lad. Here are the sharpness of bilberry leaves, the emanation of moss, the reek of a blue-spired bonfire, the resin of sticky poplar buds, the metheglin of white violets, and somewhere among them lingers the keenness of spray from the home of sea-mews.

Sometimes, when the east wind is full of meditative savagery, one almost fancies that a hot odour may have travelled in its caravan from the heart of China, bringing us a message from the spice trees of Kwangtung.

As in some uncanny flowers and distorted trees there seems to be an evil influence, so in many cloying scents there is sorcery. Down where the pale turf is dank, among the harsh smells of yew-trees, laurels and Herb Paris, one almost sees the malevolent fair face of Vivian, as she passes – delicate and dishevelled – among the tangled shadows, weaving incantations with her wimple. Crush the purple orchis or berries of black bryony, and their necromancy brings dim thoughts of evil schemings, dishonoured deaths, unholy rites. Then gather a spray of wild artemisia; its sweet influence will exorcise the sense of brooding harm; it brings remembrance of well-being and well-doing, of love triumphant and dreams come true. When the honeyed wine of apple blossom is in the air and the freshness of dew is like a caress, we hear the youth of the world laughing – we see Perdita with her arms full of daffodils, and Atalanta coming through the meadows with wet, white feet.

These immemorial essences fill the mind with purple haze and auroral mist, conjuring impalpable visions of ancient things.

The origin of flower scents is full of mystery. Sometimes they seem to run through the minute veins like an ichor, as in wallflowers, with their scented petals; sometimes they are locked in the pollen casket, or brim the nectar-cup; sometimes they come from the leaf-pores, as in balm, and sometimes from the roots in addition, as in primroses and lilies. The essence lies in the arms of that small creature, the seed, who seldom tells her secret.

Flowers like the oxlip, with transparently thin petals, only faintly washed with colour, yet have a distinct and pervasive scent. Daisies are redolent of babyhood and whiteness. Wood anemones, lady's smock, bird's-foot trefoil and other frail flowers will permeate a room with their fresh breath. In some deep lane one is suddenly pierced to the heart by the sweetness of woodruff, inhabitant of hidden places, shining like a little lamp on a table of green leaves. It is like heliotrope and new-mown hay with something wholly individual as well. To stand still, letting cheek and heart be gently buffeted by the purity, is to be shriven.

The violet has long had such poor, negative virtues as modesty and self-effacement ascribed to her, because she stays in her hidden nook, apparently a very humble and unknown little creature. But from her quiet haunt she sends forth her fragrance like a voice into the world – the expression of a soul so rich that it cannot be contained within her narrow dwelling. She impresses it upon the gale; the wind becomes her henchman and carries it upon his shoulders. Then such as love violets travel up the strengthening sweetness and find this sleeping beauty in her fastness, tearing their hands and healing their hearts. So she finds her worshippers, her lovers.

Many common flowers have the graciousness of personality that some rare women have. Agrimony is one of these. Walking along a dusty highway in July, one becomes aware that every breath is a blessing from some wayside flower; and tracing the resinous sweetness as it freshens through the dust, finds the hitherto unnoticed spike of little yellow stars. Those who go by a wood in May are enfolded in a wave of delight, and whispering "Wild hyacinths!" feel as if a child had kissed them.

Fragrance is the voice of inanimate things. The air is full of the cries of leaves and grass, softer than those of the flowers. In the dark night of the cedar there is a different atmosphere from that within the dusk of beeches or the green gloom of April larch woods. Sometimes, in places where there are no flowers, aromas dart upon one like little elves with sharp teeth, from corn and fir-cones, damp soil and toadstools, keen grass and pungent bracken. Even rock sends out a curious redolence in hot weather which unites with dried ling and herbs to form an undercurrent to the mellowness of gorse.

Down by a stream at dusk the water takes up into its freshness the breath of mallow, pennyroyal and willow-herb as they sway in their sleep. In a shower, unsuspected sweets rush out of ambush with a laugh, overpowering and imprisoning us. In the dewy summer dark, clover and night-flowering stock conspire with the campion and the sleepless honeysuckle to invade the drenched garden and to conquer and possess the dreaming house.

Often in winter across leagues of snow a mysterious fragrance comes, inexplicable until we remember that snow itself has a faint emanation, and that the essence of pines, of last year's hay and far-off violets can wander across the pure air for long distances, treasured (like wine in a crystal glass) by the frost.

Is any one sickened by the sordidness of life? Let him go to the tents of flowering trees, when the cavalcade of the wild bee comes to the apple as the Arabs to Mecca, when the spinneys are fresh with quicken, and the fly hovers like a lover outside the shut door of the pear blossom and waits till the red cross of denial that marks the bud is changed to the yellow pollen-wreath of fulfilment.

The fragrance of limes, when every honey-dripping tassel has its clinging bee, is like the hail of a friend. The poignancy of it and the deep note of the bees weave themselves into a circumambient peace, within which each tree dwells like Saturn in his rings. It is fainter in the outer precincts, deepening to such a breathless delight as one penetrates to the centre that it is difficult to remember which sense is in touch with the voice of the bees and which with the voice of the tree.

A little wood I know has in May among its oaks and beeches many white pillars of gean trees, each with its own air round it. At long intervals a large, soft flower wanders down, vaguely honeyed, mixing its breath with the savour of sphagnum moss, and resting among the wood-sorrel. The wood-pigeons speak of love together in their deep voices, unashamed, too sensuous to be anything but pure. Among the enchanted pillars, on the carpet of pale sorrel, with a single flower cool in the hand, one is in the very throne-room of white light. A little farther on the air is musky from the crowded minarets of the horse chestnut – white marble splashed with rose – where the bumble bee drones.

Insects are the artists of fragrance; they have a genius for it; there seems to be some affinity between the tenuity of their being and this most refined of the sense-impressions. Ghostly calls summon them to their banquets. The crane's-bill has a word for the gnat; the helleborine fills her goblet only for the wasp; the yellow iris calls to the honey-fly; the meadow saffron's veined cup is for the bee. Moths call each other by scent; so do bees; and probably the smallest ephemera follow the same law. These calls and answers cross the world continually, like a web of fine threads, most of them too slight for our comprehension.

Nature spreads her sweets for the poor: she gives them rosemary instead of sandal-buds, wild cassia instead of cinnamon, iris roots and ploughman's spikenard for these who cannot buy attar of roses. The nectar of full hives, warm wax, dry leaves, ripening apples – these are her commonplaces. The very beetle climbing a rough willow is redolent of flowers. On the darkest day of the year, with sleet in the air, you can find in the sombre shelter of a yew tree a pale blossom scented like heliotrope. It is only the wild butterbur, yet its delicacy lifts the wintry day on to the steps of summer. Among the most desolate sandhills you may find in July acres of wax-white pyrola – like lilies of the valley splashed with pink – covering the plains between the lonely ridges of harsh, grey grass. The forlorn sigh of the grass is drowned by the humming of bees over the glistening carpet, and from every flower rises an intense fragrance.

The whole earth is a thurible heaped with incense, afire with the divine, yet not consumed. This is the most spiritual of earth's joys – too subtle for analysis, mysteriously connected with light and with whiteness, for white flowers are sweetest – yet it penetrates the physical being to its depths. Here is a symbol of the material value of spiritual things. If we washed our souls in these healing perfumes as often as we wash our hands, our lives would be infinitely more wholesome. The old herbalists were wise in their simplicity in the making of marigold potions, medicaments of herbs, soothing unguents from melilot and musk-mallow, elecampane and agrimony, pillows for the sick from rosemary and basil, beech-leaf mattresses for the weary – for these things cleanse the whole being. "Golden saxifrage for melancholy, blue vervain for working magic cures," said the old physicians; and still the shining saxifrage shames the discontented, and the rare blue vervain diffuses magic. The pasque-flower – dark purple, sun-hearted, with its symbolism of the old grief and the young joy that the Christian mystic puts into the word Easter – was given for cataract: it cures a darkness worse than that of the eyes. The Arabs give a fusion of roses for phthisis; the aconite, under her cold, slaty roof, keeps a simple for fevers; from the pink cistus, with its heart of five flames, comes the merciful labdanum. Such things are a cordial for body and soul.

A thousand homely plants send out their oils and resins from the still places where they are in touch with vast forces, to heal men of their foulness. They link the places that humanity has made so chokingly dusty with the life-giving airs of the ambrosial meadows – bringing women's heads round quickly and setting people smiling.

Not once only, but every year, the fair young body of the wild rose hangs upon the thorn, redeeming us through wonder, and crying across the fetid haunts of the money-grubbers with volatile sweetness – "Father . . . they know not what they do."

Saffron Spice Melange

Saffron Spice Melange is an reddish orange transparent liquid with a unique, rich, dry, earthy, spicy, herbaceous bouquet with a lovely sweet, floral, herbaceous undertone. The blend includes of saffron co2, black pepper eo, cinnamon bark eo, nutmeg eo, cardamom eo, clove eo, vanilla absolute, etc

In natural perfumery it is used in spice accords, culinary perfumes, incense bouquets, colognes, high class florals, sacred perfumes.

Sandalwood/Santalum album Indonesia

Sandalwood oil from Indonesia is distilled from the same species(Santalum album) as grows in South India. Sandalwood trees have grown in Indonesia for many centuries and the quality of the oil when well distilled is of equal quality to the best South Indian sandalwood.

The current batch of Indonesian distilled Sandalwood is a pale yellow slightly viscous liquid with a true, deep, rich,  precious woods bouquet, with a soft, sweet, balsamic undertone of fine tenacity.
It is as fine as any sandalwood we have been able to procure in recent years including oil that we use to source directly from the Tamil Nadu Forest Service distillery in South India which we visited many years ago.

Its application in natural perfumery is diverse as sandalwood is first and foremost an excellent fixative that works with most perfume compositions. It is used in high class florals, Oriental bouquets, incense notes, sacred perfumes, fougere, chypres, amber bases, precious woods accords.
It is also outstanding as a single note perfume being a perfect embodiment of the  precious woods complex.

Fragrance of Azahar-Rowland Thirlmere

The country between Benifayo and Algemesi, which I last saw on a tempestuous November day, literally submerged in a riot of tumbling red waters, surprised us with its opulence. The rich and friable soil is of a fine Indian red, and appears to be capable of producing magnificent fruits and people with equal ease. Its oranges are splendid. Several times we alighted to buy them. The poignant scent of the orange blossom made us hungry for more. It seemed so good to be feeding on the product of flowers that exhaled such sweetness! There was no fear of death in that odour. The smell of ethereal sherry in a bodega first exhilarates, then depresses, and, all conditions being favourable, ultimately kills. Hyacinths in a closed room may subtly slay; the perfume of almond oil may be fatal. Pope Alexander and the other infamous Borgias may have used these poisonous scents, but they could never kill their victims with the orange-flower. Were it possible to die from the inhalation of this fragrance, that is the death I would choose. "Slain by the scent of the azahar" would make a most original verdict for a coroner's jury.

There had been heavy rain,, and the splendid masses of larkspur in the park were somewhat bedraggled, and splashed with mud. The continual breath of roses made the air heavy and relaxing; whilst the still more penetrating odour of the orange blossoms sweetened the atmosphere so much that one's mind became full of an indescribable imaginative tumult, and one's senses seemed to faint in a riot of recollections and anticipations. The quintessential fragrance of old romance pulsed through the delicious air; for the exquisitely fragrant petals of the azahar flowers were drying in the intermittent bursts of sunlight, and, to my mind, there is no bloom in this glorious world with so powerful and so poignant a sweetness as that possessed by the bridal orange-blossom—the azahar of the Moors.

Meadows of the Brandywine- John Russel Hayes

Meadows of the Brandywine- John Russel Hayes

O, MEMORY, call back the hours
Of childhood's day among the flowers
That grew in gardens sweet and old
Beneath those skies of misty gold
That made the summers seem divine
In meadows by the Brandywine!

Call back the breezes warm and sweet
That drowsed across the yellow wheat
And made the sylvan valleys ring
With music light as dryads sing,
With music faint and faery-fine,
In meadows by the Brandywine!

Dear Memory, call back again
The soft and silver wraiths of rain
That bent the buttercups, and swayed
The sleepy clover-heads, and made
The hosts of dancing daisies shine
In meadows by the Brandywine!

Call back, the glow-worm's elfin fire
That wavered where the marshy choir
Made reedy music ghostly-light
Across the fragrance of the night,
Till lucent stars began to shine
O'er meadows by the Brandywine!
0 far, sweet hours, what strange regret
Brings tears for you to-night, while yet
1 would not have your magic be  
More than a dreama dreamto me,  
A dream of vanished hours divine
In meadows by the Brandywine!

Cherry Blossoms Japan
Cherry Blossoms in Japan
Leora B. Lobdell  
No matter how extravagantly the books describe or the pictures portray the cherry blossoms, just believe every shade and tone of it, for it is all beautifully true. This warm April morning has proved how wonderful Japan can be in a rain storm when the cherry blossoms are at their best.
At seven this morning I walked up and down the porch to drink deep the fragrance of it all. There was the spacious garden, bordered by the bamboo hedge, just beyond the narrow street, and on the other side the high fence of our Japanese neighbor. Not a base ball fence, by any means, but a ten-foot fence of neatly woven bamboo topped by a luxuriance of glistening foliage.
An old woman, in a limp kimona, towelled head and bare feet, paddled through the mud bearing a big basket on her back. She was wrinkled and dirty, bent and burdened, but the dainty white cauliflower, with its fresh green leaves peeping above the basket's rim, proved that age and humble condition had not separated the old woman from nature's works of true art.
Just then a young woman came clicking along on her wooden shoes, which lifted her kimona free from the muddy street. Her clean, pretty gray kimona with its bright red sah, her big yellow and black umbrella and her erect figure, showed the brighter side of life in Japan. And how the blossoms greeted them both!
For high over the street, in the warm, bright rain, the cherry blossoms were nodding. They were baby blossoms, pink and frail, cuddling and nodding on the swaying boughs, gracefully greeting their neighboring buds as the rain and the breeze tossed them hither and thither. They seemed to know that the dull gray trees had been lonely a long, long time, so they blush and nod and smile away in the glistening drops of rain, as if to assure all nature that they have a joyous message, that they come to brighten and to bless.
And they are all about us—everywhere. Just behind our house, at the foot of the mountain, is a park full of tiny t?a houses, miniature lakes, splendid old temples and stately pines. Against the magnificent background made by the pine trees are masses of pink cherry blossoms. "Exquisite" is the only word that describes them, and even that is meanly poor, because they have a gracefulness, a color and a daintiness peculiarly their own. All Shidzuoka, and indeed all Japan, is rosy pink just now-masses of bloom greet us on every hand. We do not exclaim; we take them as Heaven's gift to Japan. And such they really are.

Sweet Amber Melange

Sweet Amber Melange is a blend of natural essences obtained from vanilla, ambrette seed, nagarmotha, labdanum and several other select botanicals. It is amber colored viscous liquid displaying a wonderfu l rich, honeyed, resinous/balsamic bouquet with a deep precious woods undertone of fine tenacity.

As mentioned in an earlier blog on Ambergris, there has been and probably always will be some confusion as regards to the essences of ambergris and amber. Ambergris is a product obtained from whales and seldom appears in the perfumery market. Its olfactory qualities vary somewhat depending on the age of material and other factors(more can be read in the ambergris blog- Amber as it exists in the perfume world is almost entirely a fantasy creation based on sweet resinous and balsamic  materials such as benzoin, vanilla, ambrette, beeswax etc at the core with many other essences being added to create different effects. A true amber oil does exist but in actual fact its olfactory characteristics are much in the line of cade and birch tar ie smoky, phenolic, tar-like, camphoraceous.

One can never say precisely how the sweet versions of amber evolved but perhaps the visual beauty of the amber pieces inspired perfumers to create an essence that portrayed its rich, radiant colors.
Be that as it may sweet amber creations can be essences of great olfactory beauty.

Perfumery Notes on Amber and Ambergris