Oriental Accord

Oriental Accord

The Oriental Accord came into being, it is thought, during the Victorian period and it was said to be an olfactory interpretation of peoples imaginings of the mysterious and exotic East. The essences used to capture this feeling were in the balsamic, resinous, spicy, exotic floral and precious woods category.

The basic accord has greater scope for interpretation than one might find in other classic accords like fougere and chypre. I decided to base the Oriental accord on 4 simple essences; Frankincense absolute, cinnamon bark eo, ylang absolute and Virginia cedarwood eo.

There are three main categories of Oriental perfumes which are listed below. All three categories share the use of spices and resins. Many superb perfumes can be created adding a few select essences from the list given below to the basic accord above.

Spices
Essential oils-allspice eo; anise star eo; cardamom eo; cassia eo; cinnamon bark eo; cinnamon leaf eo clove bud eo;coriander eo; cubeb eo; cumin eo; curry leaf eo; ginger eo; lawang eo; mace eo; nutmeg eo; plai eo; tomar seed eo; sugandh kokila eo
co2 extracts-allspice co2; cardamon co2; cassia co2; clove bud co2; cumin co2; fenugreek co2; ginger co2; nutmeg co2; pepper black co2; pepper pink co2; saffron co2; turmeric co2
absolutes-allspice berry abs; cardamom abs; cinnamon bark abs; fenugreek abs; helichrysum abs; nutmeg abs; poplar bud abs

Resins
essential oils- balsam peru eo; cistus eo; elemi eo; frankincense eo; galbanum eo; labdanum eo; mastic eo; myrrh eo; opoponax eo; styrax eo
co2 extracts-frankincense co2; galbanum co2; myrrh co2;
absolutes-balsam peru abs; benzoin abs; frankincense abs; frankincense/cedarwood coextracted abs; galbanum abs; labdanum abs; mastic abs; opoponax abs; styrax abs


Oriental ambers/Soft Orientals

The soft oriental category is enhanced by light florals and amber notes
Light florals
neroli eo; rose otto/ruh gulab eo; petitgrain sur fluer eo; champa white flower co2; jasmin sambac co2; carnation abs; cassie abs; jasmin grandiflorum abs; linden blossom abs; lotus blue abs; mimosa abs; rosa damascena abs; ylang abs
amber notes:
amber eo; ambari attar; ambari supreme attar

Oriental floral

The Oriental floral category is defined by heavy florals, musk and vanilla
heavy florals
ylang eo; aurora attar; kailash attar, ambrosia attar; ruh kewda; ruh motia; frangipani abs; jasmin sambac abs; jasmin auriculatum abs; jasmin flexile abs; lotus pink abs; lotus white abs; orange blossom abs; osmanthus abs; rosa bourbonia abs; tuberose abs; white ginger lily abs
musk notes
ambrette seed eo; angelica root eo; musk black attar; musk supreme attar
vanilla co2; vanilla abs

Oriental woody

The oriental woody category is categorized by precious woods notes
essential oilsagarwood eo; arurcaria eocabreuva eo; cedarwood, red heartwood; cedar, atlas eo; cedar,himalya eo; cedar, virginia eo; guiacawood eo; muhuhu eo; patchouli eo; rosewood eo; sandalwood eo; vetiver eo
co2 extracts-orris root co2; vetiver co2
absolutes-cedarwood white abs; sandalwood abs