Chypre Accord

Chypre Accord

In the coming weeks we will be adding several new accords. to our product section "Perfumery Accords" which currently consists of three accords: Jasmin Accord, Rose Accord, Mango Accord. These three are based exclusively on natural isolates.

The new accords we will be adding include Oriental, Fougere, Chypre, Amber and Citrus and will be based on essential oils, absoltues and co2 extracts which we have formulated over the years but up till now have not offered as part of our product palette.

Chypre accord is a simple blend of Oakmoss absolute, Bergamot essential oil and Labdanum absolute. Like all accords it is a simple perfume family building block meant to be used as a base for further creative perfumery work.

In the Chypre family there are several distinct subcategories which include:
1. Animalic chypres
2. Floral Chypres
3. Fruity Chypres
4. Green Chypres
5. Woody-Aromatic Chypres
6. Leathery animalic Chypres
7. Fresh Citrus Chypres

Following is a list of essential oils, absolutes, co2's, ruhs, attars and choyas which can be used for each category. From this list it is easy to see how many exciting creations one can make based one central theme. Through a wise selection of essences one can infuse a unique aromatic life into the central accord and give it their own distinguishing touch.
It is important to remember that when adding any new material to the central accord that one allow a maturation period of 1-3 months before one can begin to evaluate its impact. It can take 6-12 months before the full effect is known.
It is also important to evaluate what effect one wishes the central accord to have on the final composition. The central accord itself can act as the dominant note of the perfume in which case one may be adding 10-15% of new essences to the composition, or a middle note in which case 15-25% may be added or a muted base note in which case 25-40% may be added.
The beauty of the central accord is that it is an excellent medium to absorb all types of essences and interact with them in a harmonious way
1. Animalic chypres
essential oils-agarood/Nagamotha codistillation eo, agarwood eo, ambrette eo,
co2 extracts-angelica root eo, calamus eo; spikenard eo; ambrette co2; angelica root co2; calamus co2; costus co2; lovage root co2; rose white co2; rose pink co2
attars, ruhs and choyas-Agarwood amber attar, amberi attar, musk black attar, shamama attar, amber supreme attar; musk supreme attar
absolutesaglaia odorata abs; ambrette seed abs; mushroom abs; seaweed abs

2. Floral Chypres
essential oils-cananga eo; neroli eo; petitgrain sur fluer eo; rose pink/white codistillation eo; rose otto/ruh gulab; ylang eo;
co2 extracts-champa flower co2; jasmin sambac co2; magnoli lily co2;
attars, ruhs and choyas aurora attar, kailash attar; ruh kewda; ruh motia
absolutes carnation abs; cassie abs; frangipani abs; jasmin grandiflorum abs; jasmin sambac abs; jasmin flexile abs; jasmin auriculatum abs; linden blossom abs; lotus pink abs; lotus blue abs; lotus white abs; orange blossom abs; osmanthus abs; rosa bourbonia abs; rosa centifolia abs; rosa damascena abs; tuberose abs; white ginger lily abs; ylang abs

3. Fruity Chypres
essential oils-chamomile, english/roman eo; chamomile, blue/german eo; chamomile wild morocco eo;
champa, white leaf eo; cypress blue eo; davana eo; massoia bark eo; tansy blue eo
co2 extracts-massoia bark co2
attars, ruhs and choyasmukhallat attar
absolutes chamomile blue abs; fir balsam abs; lavindin seville abs; raspberry leaf abs

4. Green Chypres
essential oils-artemisia, white sage brush eo; basil eo; catnip eo; galbanum eo; geranium eo; hyssop eo; khella eo; lavender eo; lavindin eo; lantana eo; marjoram sweet eo; monarda/bee balsm eo; rosemary eo; sage eo; sage, clary eo; st. john's wort eo; tarragon eo;
co2 extracts-celery seed co2; galbanum co2, hops co2, lavender co2; tea green co2; tea black co2;
absolutes black currant abs; boronia melange abs; calendula abs; galbanum abs; geranium abs; lavender abs; lavindin abs; mastic abs; rosemary abs; tagetes abs; tea green abs; thyme abs; violet leaf abs

5. Woody-Aromatic Chypres
essential oils-allspice eo aruacaria eo; basil, holy eo; bay rum eo; cabreuva eo; cardamon eo; cassia eo; cedar, red heartwood; cedar, atlas eo; cedar, virginia eo; cedar, himalaya eo; cinammon bark eo; cubeb eo; cumin seed eo; curry leaf eo; cypress eo; ginger eo; guaicawood eo; mace eo; muhuhu eo; nutmeg eo; patchouli eo; pepper eo; rosewood eo; sandalwood eo; siamwood wood eo; sugandh kokila eo; tomar seed eo; vetiver eo;
co2 extracts-cardamon co2; cassia co2; clove bud co2; cumin co2; fenugreek co2, juniper berry co2; nutmeg co2; orris root co2; pepper black co2; pepper pink co2; vetiver co2
attars, ruhs and choyas-majmua attar
absolutes allspice berry abs; cardamom abs; cedarwood abs; cinnamon bark abs; fenugreek abs; nutmeg abs; poplar bud abs; sandalwood abs

6. Leathery animalic Chypres
essential oils-amber eo, birch tar eo, birch sweet eo, cade eo, mastic eo; opoponax eo, wintergreen eo
attars, ruhs and choyaschoya loban, choya ral, choya nakh
absolutes opoponax abs; patchouli abs

7. Fresh Citrus Chypres
essential oils-bergamot mint eo; citron eo; clementine eo; grapefruit eo; lemon eo; lemon essence eo; lemongrass eo; lemonbalm/melissa eo; lime eo; lime essence eo; litsea cubeba eo; mandarin red eo; mandarin green eo; orange bitter eo; orange sweet eo; orange blood eo; petitgrain mandarin eo; petitgrain combava eo; petitgrain bigarade eo; petitgrain lemon eo; petitgrain bergamot eo; tangerine eo; tangerine essence eo; verbena lemon eo;
yuzu eo

8. Coniferous Chypres
essential oils cedar leaf eo; cypress eo; fir balsam eo; fir grand eo; fir douglas eo; fir silver eo; juniper berry eo; pine, forest eo; pine maritime eo; spruce black eo; spruce blue hemlock eo; templin eo;
co2 extracts juniper berry co2
absolutes cedarwood white abs; pine forest/cedarwood coextracted abs; pine absolute; spruce blue hemlock abs; spruce black hemlock abs


From going through this list I think it is evident that one could easily create a whole range of Chypre based perfumes using simple combinations of the essences listed in each category. There is infinite scope for creative work within even one family of perfumes, in this case Chypre.

For those who wish to read more on Chypre the following leaks may prove useful

Chypre Accord

Wikipedia
Types of Chypre
Magic of Chypre
What do Chypres Smell Like?
Flora and Coniferous Chypre
Green/Herbal Chypre
The Mystery and Allure of Chypres: On Fragrance Families