fragrant Quote for December 31st, 2011 William Hamilton Gibson: artist--naturalist--author By John Coleman Adams

"Let us then content ourselves no longer with being mere 'botanists '—historians of structural facts. The flowers are not mere comely or curious vegetable creations, with colors, odors, petals, stamens, and innumerable technical attributes. The wonted insight alike of scientist, philosopher, theologian, and dreamer is now repudiated in the new revelation. Beauty is not 'its own excuse for being,' nor was fragrance ever 'wasted on the desert air.' The seer has at last heard and interpreted the voice in the wilderness. The flower is no longer a simple passive victim in the busy bee's sweet pillage, but rather a conscious being, with hopes, aspirations, and companionships. The insect is its counterpart. Its fragrance is but a perfumed whisper of welcome, its color is as the wooing blush and rosy lip, its portals are decked for his coming, and its sweet hospitalities humored to his tarrying; and as it finally speeds its parting affinity rests content that its life's consummation has been fulfilled."
William Hamilton Gibson: artist--naturalist--author
By John Coleman Adams
Our woodland trees
By Francis George Heath

Classics of French Perfumery-Nouveau manuel complet du parfumeur ... By Elisabeth Celnart

Classics of French Perfumery-Nouveau manuel complet du parfumeur ... By Elisabeth Celnart

Fragrant Quote for December 30th, 2011 The Dingbat of Arcady By Marguerite Ogden Bigelow Wilkinson

A townsman gets little joy from the scent of woodsmoke, for he does not know how many varieties of smoke there are. But woodsmen know that there are many fragrances in the burning of wood. Dead wood is not like green, and pine is not like maple to our noses. Smoke in frosty air smells sweeter than smoke in summer. But whether it be the spicy perfume of chaparral, crackling sage and mesquite twigs from a Southern mesa, the rich odor of kindled pine, or the milder fragrance of oak logs, it is a symbol of all honorable things to the camper. Watching it rise in strands or puffs of blue and gray is like watching the whole history of the race. In the fading tissue of color I have seen altars and forges and hearths and pyres for the dead. I have seen Prometheus, dearest of Titans, and his children of this later age, still busy stealing for us holier flames than any that can be wedded with wood.
The Dingbat of Arcady
By Marguerite Ogden Bigelow Wilkinson

Fragrance Quote December 29th, 2011 from Through the year with Thoreau

October 9, 1851. To Conantum. The witchhazel here is in full blossom on this magical hillside, while its broad yellow leaves are falling. It is an extremely interesting plant, — October and November's child, and yet reminds me of the very earliest spring. Its blossoms smell like the spring, like the willow catkins; by their color as well as fragrance they belong to the saffron dawn of the year, suggesting amid all these signs of autumn, falling leaves and frost, that the life of Nature, by which she eternally flourishes, is untouched. It stands here in the shadow on the side of the hill, while the sunlight from over the top of the hill lights up its topmost sprays and yellow blossoms. Its spray, so jointed and angular, is not to be mistaken for any other. I lie on my back with joy under its boughs. While its leaves fall, its blossoms spring. The autumn, then, is indeed a spring. All the year is a spring. I see two blackbirds high overhead, going south, but I am going north in my thought with these hazel blossoms. It is a faery place. This is a part of the immortality of the soul.
Fragrance Quote December 29th, 2011 from Through the year with Thoreau

The wonders of trees, plants, and shrubs, recorded in anecdotes By Joseph Taylor

The wonders of trees, plants, and shrubs, recorded in anecdotes
By Joseph Taylor

Fragrance Quote December28th, 2011 from The education of Uncle Paul By Algernon Blackwood

Fragrance Quote December28th, 2011 from The education of Uncle Paul By Algernon Blackwood

A silence fell between them. Under the furniture, safe in their dark corners, the cats began to purr again. Paul got up and strolled to the open window that looked out across lawns and shrubberies to the fringe of oaks and elms that marked the distant hayfields. The rain still fell gently, silently—a fine, scented, melancholy rain; the rain of a minor key. Tinged with a hundred delicate odors from fields and trees—ghostly perfumes far more subtle than the perfumes of flowers—the air seemed to brush the surface of his soul, dropping its fragrance down into his heart like the close presence of remembered friends.

Language of Fragrance-compelling to confusing


And with his mind thus harassed, and his nostrils filled with the compelling scent, his eyes dwelt with growing disfavor upon the delicate parcel.

Instantly the air was changed, — was tinged and interpenetrated with hurrying, spicy fumes, with hints of a bitter bark, of jellied gums, of resin, and a compelling odor which should have been sweet, but was only nauseating.

These, however, blow high into the air, and the trailer's owners now are mulling the possibility of installing other fans solely to send the compelling aroma of freshly popped corn wafting out on the midway

Just as the twilight was thickening into blackness, whiffs of peculiar, compelling fragrance came to them.

The air was heavy with the sleep-compelling perfume of the blossoms.


In passing through the hall a most decided and congenial aroma of seaweed was perceived.

Belonging as he does to a water population at home, it is strange that he has not sought the North beach of San Francisco, with its congenial scents.

Then, again, as the seed-bearing properties are developed, these qualities become so changed that the plant at the period when the flower is unfolded, sends forth a most congenial fragrance.

Dirty streets, slovenly kept buildings, and littered-up grounds, have caused many a stranger to quickly transact his necessary business and betake himself to more congenial odors and scenes, ....

The still remaining beautiful fragments of the painted roof were illuminated by the blaze of wax-lights ; and the odour of the mummies had long before been dispelled by the more congenial perfume of savoury viands.


They are fragrances within a fragrance, the building blocks of a complex perfume , and these accords are how experts define the different fragrance families.

The complex scent of a rose has 1215 odor molecules; a carrot has 95.

Suppose you invent an arbitrary scale, ranging from zero to eight, for measuring the intensity or strength of each of these ingredients in a complex smell.

However, this is only the first step in understanding the complex aroma of a food.

Similarly, with the olfactory system, animals are very good at identifying the complex odors that identify individuals of a species.


Sitting at their organs, with shelves full of bottles of essential oils and synthetic preparations ranged around, perfumers will attempt by degrees to build up a composite fragrance which meets the specifications imposed.

...he achieves a cumulative effect, in which all those smells suggested mingle to form a composite aroma in the reader's imagination.

This is a composite odor, made up of the individual odors from all of the workers in the hive, ...

When the fire dies down this warm air cools, slowly to be sure, but enough to let down whiffs of the composite smell, reminiscent of yesterday's breakfast, or last night's dinner.


Sachet is highly concentrated perfume which usually comes in powder form and sometimes in creamy liquid

The diffused odour, as it pervades the entire atmosphere of a hothouse, resembles that of Mignonette ; but the more powerful and concentrated fragrance is of that of the sweet aromatic nature of that of some orchids.

This concentrated aroma, representing 60 times its weight in actual berries, is a commercial dilution-product of another preparation 100 times as strong.

The concentrated odor of thousands of years of their droppings almost suffocated him.


Confusing smell and taste. are carried through the nose by the outgoing breath.

And locating that crop may be made even more difficult by the many confusing scent signals emitted by the diverse plants in your garden.

Jasmine(Jasminum grandiflorum) essential oil/Egypt

Jasmine(Jasminum grandiflorum) essential oil/Egypt

Over the years many folks have requested distilled oil of Jasmine flowers which, up till now, has only been available from India, where it is called Ruh Chameli. We have stocked it periodically but mainly on a special order basis as it is super costly at $300 per ounce
Recently we were able to procure an exceptionally beautiful distilled Jasmin grandiflorum oil from Egypt which I think will be enjoyed by connoisseurs of high quality essences.

The distilled essential oil of Jasminum grandiflorum flowers is a pale yellow liquid displaying an soft, ethereal, warm sweet floral bouquet with a fruity, balsamic, honeyed-waxy undertone

Its application in natural perfumery is comprehensive being used in high class florals, sacred perfumes, culinary essences, sophisticated colognes, garland perfumes

Blends well with:
Aglaia odorata absolute
Ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs
Beeswax absolute
Benzoin absolute
Bergamot eo
Blood orange eo
Bois de rose/Rosewood eo
Boronia absolute
cabreva eo
Cananga eo
Cassie Absolue
citron eo
clary sage eo
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
clover sweet abs
copaiba balsam eo
coriander seedeo and co2
fennel sweet eo and co2
fir balsam abs
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
frangipani abs
kewda eo
lavender eo, co2 and abs
mandarin eo
mimosa absolute
orange blossom abs
orris root eo and co2
osmanthus absolute
patchouli eo, co2 an abs
peru balsam eo and abs
neroli eo
rose eo, co2 and abs
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
siamwood eo
styrax eo and abs
tonka bean abs
tuberosa abs
ylang eo and abs

Price is $250 an ounce(prices for other sizes are posted on the web site)

Table of Refractive Indices of Oils, Fats and Waxes(Volume 2) compiled by R. Kanthack

Table of Refractive Indices of Oils, Fats and Waxes(Volume 2) compiled by R. Kanthack

Classics of French Perfumery-La volupté et les parfums: Rapport des odeurs avec le sens génital. Le ... By Jean Fauconney

Classics of French Perfumery-La volupté et les parfums: Rapport des odeurs avec le sens génital. Le ... By Jean Fauconney

Fragrance Quote December 27th, 2011 from Rambles of a Canadian naturalist By Samuel Thomas Wood

Fragrance Quote December 27th, 2011 from Rambles of a Canadian naturalist By Samuel Thomas Wood

The odour of burning leaves is in the air. There is a natural freshness about it that prompts the expansion of the lungs. It seems an assurance of a wave of real air in the midst of the sulphurous fumes of a thousand chimneys and the penetrating dust of the abraded streets. The smoke of the leaves seems but a strengthening of the natural leafy smell that fills the naked woods, where the scattered foliage is returning again to the earth to enrich it for a new season's growth. There is no more satisfying forest odour than the exhalations from the fallen leaves, when they spread the moist, misty warmth of Indian summer among the rugged trunks and naked shrubbery. They seem to give forth again the breath of life that made the spring an invitation.

Language of Fragrance-calming to commanding



It has a lovely, fresh, calming scent.....

she inhaled the calming odor....

Today, lavender is popular as a spirit lifting, nerve- relaxing, calming fragrance.

Hints of citrus give a light top note to this sweet, floral calming perfume.

Homm yenn is a Thai phrase used to describe a cooling and calming aroma.



When employed in very small proportions it gives a most charming perfume effect and the fine character of many modern popular odors of the Oriental type.....
Industrial chemistry: a manual for the student and manufacturer
Allen Rogers

It was a smooth and calming smell, a smell that he liked.
...they stand and drink in the peculiar odor that is brought on the wings of the wind from the field where thousands of daisies lift up their gold and silver crowns to the sky; and they tell you of the charming scent of the pines and the cedars as they pass them by.
Annual report ...
By Vermont. State Board of Agriculture, Vermont State Horticultural Society

Who gave it such a charming smell, which perfumes all the air about it?
The Gospel teacher and Sabbath school contributor-1845

At that time it was a difficult task for even the perfumer with his inherent art to reproduce the charming fragrance of the rose, working as he did with the products of nature herself, for the oil extracted from the fragrant petals does not contain the entire aroma of the flower. Part of the delicate "bouquet" is lost in the crude methods of extraction. It is the art of the perfumer to supply this missing "bouquet," as the nose directs, with other suitable flower and resinous products.
Merck report, Volume 24
edited by Theodore Weicker

Impregnated with this delightful perfume, its emollient qualities and charming odor combine to make it a perfect Toilet Soap, ...


Like lemon-grass oil it is used only in cheap perfumes and soaps.

Cheap violet scents, in fact, cheap scents of any kind, should be avoided ; they are not made from flowers at all, but of skillfully compounded chemicals, and instead of soothing have an irritating effect.

...they also have the cheap smell of scented antibacterial soap, ...

They must, in addition, have a nice smell; nobody wants a cheap fragrance that merely covers the nasty smell of the ingredients...

If your customer insists on having a cheaper odor, tell him you will dilute ... buying the cheap stuff at 25 cents an ounce, or less; tell them that cheap odors are made by even cheaper processes, and from cheaper material than this.....


When you're washing up, you want to feel fresh and clean, so a fresh, clean scent is a natural choice for the bathroom.

They add color and naturally emit a fresh clean fragrance — to a kitchen and dining room.

Saffron should have a distinct, clean aroma;it should never feel soft or spongy or develop a musty smell.

The salt air is charged with the pungent odor of seaweed from the brine-soaked tidelands, the resinous tang of newly cut lumber and of smoke from the burning slabs and sawdust, the clean odor of tar from nets and creosoted pilings, ...

The choking alkaline smell of dust churned up in the arena, and the hot, clean smell of sunlight...



newborns show by their faces that they have very clear odor ...

From the leaves come the clear scent of lemon.

In the resolution, the saint is miraculously healed, and the foul odor replaced by the clear fragrance of sanctity.

The straining is important in giving a beautiful, clear perfume. ...


The chemical products do not serve exclusively for the preparation of strong and coarse perfumes ; they also have their place in fine perfumery.

The oil is distilled on an enormous scale and used for perfuming the cheapest household soaps and in the manufacture of coarse scent...

From this the path would lead gradually through less coarse fragrances to those more pleasant...

It has a coarse aroma and flavour, as grapy as Muscat but without any of the latter's elegance or lightness, and in fact is not related.

Hence their inferiority — the fusil oil of the corn spirit having, in fact, a coarse smell in comparison wuh the bouquet of ceanthic ether.



There was a comfortable fragrance of new-baked bread....

...the comfortable scent of good food well cooked....

comfortable aroma of fresh laundry hanging from the airing rail up near the ceiling.

also the musty but comfortable odor of books, old sofas, and mothballs, reminiscent of the few but precious times my father
n a genial mood, had allowed me to stay in his study while he worked.



In fact, only the most understated preparations are an appropriate foil for the commanding fragrance of white truffles.

The subtle desert aromas of dust and sage were overpowered by the commanding odor of paint.

The maid had cleaned the room and the sheets emitted the faint odor of fresh- laundering, but the vase of fresh cut roses sitting on the marble-topped chest conveyed the commanding scent of the room.

Fragrant Quotation for December 26th, 2011 from Spring Comes to the Desert

A walk out in the desert brings to light more of the spring's gifts. This vast expanse of flatness, sprinkled with the green and gray of creosote and sage, is not only an abiding-place for horned toads and lizards, "side-winders," jack-rabbits, and coyotes; scattered among the typical desert growth are flowers of unexpected delicacy and fragrance. From one spot you can see a dozen varieties of bloom — many yellow, daisy-like blossoms ; delicate blue, pink-tinged larkspur; low bushes covered with fragrant greenish-white spikes, reminding one of sweet alyssum; the silky, flaunting magenta of the prickly pear; bunches of tiny pink stars; soft, fluffy yellow dandelions, the center petals tipped with red ; gorgeous masses of pinkish-lilac sand-verbenas, spreading out in a wide circle long, trailing stems, which every few inches put forth smaller-stemmed bunches of delicate bloom, with an elusive, fascinating fragrance; and, best of all, the wonderful sand-lilies. The long stalk, growing up straight a foot or two, bears sometimes three dozen buds which open into white lilies, heavy with fragrance. It is astonishing to come unexpectedly upon this symbol of Easter. One feels as if a miracle had taken place. Up the slope are spikes of creamy yucca-bells, the tall stalks higher than a man's head; and on the hills beyond the river are beautiful large asters, with a hint of lavender in their feathery blue petals. A few miles to the east grow in profusion the thistle poppies—large white blossoms of remarkable beauty—sisters to the Matilija poppy. The creosote-bush is yellow with bloom; the various sages are tipped with blue, lavender, or purple ; the mesquite is strung with feathery yellow catkins ; each straight stalk of the arrow-weed is crowned with a bit of lavender; in fact, every shrub of the desert has a touch of color.
Fragrant Quotation for December 26th, 2011 from Spring Comes to the Desert

Classics of French Perfumery-Fabrication des essences et des parfums: plantes à parfum.--Extraction des ... By J.-P. Durvelle

Classics of French Perfumery-Fabrication des essences et des parfums: plantes à parfum.--Extraction des ... By J.-P. Durvelle

Classics of French Perfumery-Les parfums de la toilette et les cosmétiques les plus favorables à la ... By Auguste Debay

Classics of French Perfumery-Les parfums de la toilette et les cosmétiques les plus favorables à la ... By Auguste Debay

Fragrance of Christmas

They were standing just inside the big front door of the hospital. To enter at all had taken every bit of Georgia's courage; she had waited on the, threshold with a sick pang of remembrance. Then Sister Sebastian, by some good fortune, had opened the door, and there had been an immediate explanation of the errand. However, in addition to the firm, encouraging clasp of Sebastian's hand, there were other conditions that took away the fearful familiarness of the place. The wide hall was hung with ropes of Christmas green, and the fragrance of cedar and juniper and hemlock came from the open door of the chapel down the right-hand corridor, where the Sisters were trimming the chancel. So joyous a fragrance must surely reach up into the wards and have some curative powers. And in addition to Christmas fragrance indoors there was the shine of real Christmas snow under the street lights whenever the front door was opened, and as much hurry and flurry in the twilight of Christmas Eve as in the midday of an ordinary time. Nothing could possibly be less harrowing and yet be the same.
Her wings
By Frances Newton Symmes Allen

A CLOUDLESS, sunlit sky,—not of a pale, wintry blue, but heavy-laden with translucent color; a soft stir of breeze flecking with white caps the deep blue of the bay; mingled with the Christmas fragrance of the pines in the woods; along the shore the sweetness of purple violets blooming in the mission and home gardens of the tiledroofed, adobe-housed, little town of Monterey.

Suddenly he sat up and sniffed and sniffed.
"What is that delectable smell," he muttered, "it's not cookies nor spice-cakes nor gingerbread, but a bit like all three of 'cm all rolled into one. I know," he shouted slapping his knee, "it's German Christmas cakes! It's peppernuts and honeycakes, and those weird and wonderfully decorated lebkuchen I'm smelling; and I'm going to follow that smell and see where it leads me!"
It drew him into a bit of a house directly opposite, up two rickety stairs and into a small and plainly-furnished room, as neat as wax. The cakes were there, sure enough; peppernuts, honey-cakes, anise stars, and gingerbread animals and brownies, gay with pink and blue and green and yellow icing and knobby with almonds and citron, and sitting close by, contentedly making gingham frocks for two indestructible dollies, sat a small, elderly, red apple-cheeked lady.
"Ach, liebster, bester Santa Claus," said she greeting him with outstretched hands. "How very, very glad am I to see you! Sit down and try my Christmas cakes—they're not bad, nicht wahr?—and these other things I'm making for your Christmas stockings. Will they do?" And she spread out before him wristlets and muffetees, penwipers and mittens, book-marks, doll-caps, and needlebooks all beautifully home-made of worsteds, scrap of silk, and bits of ribbon.
English mechanics and the world of science, Volume 92

The mountains raised naked hands to us next morning in the gray, sullen light. Tree and bush, save evergreen, were stripped to the bone of leaf; bare branches stood stark against the sky. A light snowfall had whitened the higher peaks; sombre green of tall pines looked black against the white. The river flowed dark and swollen, gnawing at granite boulders, snarling in foamy rage like a great cat tearing at its bends. Across Shasta, threatening clouds were drawn. It was a changed world, from the bright glow of summer to this lowering winter. Yet the shorn mountains held a strange dignity. I felt depressed as I shook hands with the man of the house, but the cheeriness of his greeting made sunshine. You knew he was glad to see you. Even Don Danuelo smiled at the old welcoming jokes. And Christmas was in the air, Christmas fragrance rose from every green thing, filling the earth. Swaying limbs were Christmas branches resinous and sweet, and young Christmas trees were set like altar tapers thick on the edge of the field.

A single Hemlock, standing alone, with every curving line ridged with snow, through which the feathery green shines darkly, is a fair sight, a Christmas emblem, a tree of beauty. When the sun shines and the snow melts, a faint aromatic fragrance emanates from the dripping foliage, as if the tree were burning incense. This delicate perfume, full of soft suggestion, completes the charm of this wonderful tree, precious alike for nobleness of shaft and grace of branch and leafage, seeming forever to associate it in one's mind with that dear holiday of childhood, which is the solemn festival of maturity.
For the Hemlock is, above all, the Christmas-tree. Its perfume, whenever we inhale it, brings to our minds, not only a vision of the green wood, but a thought of dim and quiet churches wreathed with its boughs, of a deep chancel embowered in its branches, of joyous hymns from white-robed choristers, of the great angelic chorus,
Gloria in Excelsis Domino,
with which Christmas Day first dawned upon a waiting earth, and which echoes still in solemn chant of earthly voices from cloister and cathedral, from chapel and fireside, as year by year the happy day returns, on which we wreathe about the Christmas altar and the Christmas hearth the Hemlock-bough to give forth the sweet incense of its fragrance.
Garden and forest, Volume 4
edited by Charles Sprague Sargent

N Virginia, where I was born, Christmas lasts not one day but a week, sometimes longer,—at least, that is the way it was in the old slave days. Looking back to those days, when Christmas, for me, was a much more momentous event than it is now, it seems to me that there was a certain charm about that Virginia Christmas time, a peculiar fragrance in the atmosphere, a something which I cannot define, and which does not exist elsewhere in the same degree, where it has been my privilege to spend the Christmas season.

In the first place, more is made of the Christmas season in Virginia, or used to be, than in most other states. Furthermore, at the time to which I refer, people lived more in the country than they do now; and the country, rather than the city, is the place for one to get real wholesome enjoyment out of the Christmas season. There is nothing in a crowded city life that can approach the happiness and general good feeling which one may have in the country, especially when the snow is upon the ground, the trees are glittering with icicles, and the Christmas odors are in the air.
Christmas Days in Old Virginia

The mean little room radiated brilliant cheer of light and perfume. Candles and lamps aided the one prim electric bulb into a blaze of illumination. Popcorn, pine greens, peanuts and wrapping paper gave out the only true Christmas smell. In the Carltons' washbowl were heaped assorted candies; in Millikin's washbowl were heaped small cakes. Carltons' pitcher steamed richly with eggnog; Millikin's chinked refreshingly with iced lemonade. The various mysterious mugs which go to clutter wash-stands were overflowing with nuts and raisins. The brush and comb trays were generously piled with chicken and buns. Noble necks of bottles tilting from an icebucket amply decorated the middle of the bed.
American magazine, Volume 63

Soon there stole over every one in the room that sense of peace and contentment which always comes when one is at ease in an atmosphere where love and kindness reign. The soft light of the candles, the low, rich color of the simple room with its festoons of cedar and pine, the aroma of the rare wine, and especially the spicy smell of the hemlock warmed by the burning tapers—that rare, unmistakable smell which only Christmas greens give out and which few of us know but once a year, and often not then; all had their effect on host and guests.
Colonel Carter's Christmas
By Francis Hopkinson Smith

MERRY Christmas! What visions and memories that greeting immediately brings up! Different memories for each of us, to be sure, and yet with a golden thread of similarity running through the fabric of the dream of our past American Christmases that makes our hearts warm whenever we hear the familiar words, "Merry Christmas!" We all have in common, of course, the marvelous Christmas odors—the smell of Christmas trees and greens lining the streets outdoors, and the spicy smells one catches in whiffs wherever a house door is opened. For weeks before the festival those fragrant indoor odors of gingerbread, fruit cake, mince meat and cookies are apt to be met with upon entering any friend's house, and they always cause a little happy lift of spirit because they mean that Christmas is coming.
American bee journal, Volume 58

2011 from Alexander Von Humboldt. Views from Nature, and Cosmos., Fragrant Quotation for December 25th

At this period of the year, what charm surpasses that which we feel under the growing shadow of beeches, on the hill-sides crowned with scattered pines; on the broad plains where the breeze murmurs through the trembling foliage of the birches? Who does not inspire with delight the vivifying aroma of a pine forest on a beautiful summer evening, when the sun glows through their dark green branches, as through a gothic window; an odorlike incense arises from their resinous trunks, and the least breath of wind rolls under the dense foliage like the sighing of an organ, or the roar of the stormy sea. The unfading green of the foliage of resinous trees protests against the ideas of destruction and death which arise from the rigors of winter in cold regions, and incessantly reminds the inhabitants of Europe, Siberia, and Canada, that if snow and ice cover the earth like a shroud, qiiite up to the limit of the polar regions, the hidden vegetable life, like the fire of Prometheus, cannot be extinguished on our planet.

Alexander Von Humboldt. Views from Nature, and Cosmos.

Quotes from Songs of the Rockies by Charles Edwin Hewes

Quote from Songs of the Rockies by Charles Edwin Hewes

SPREAD a magnificent wilderness of mountain crags forever lifted unto the bright eyes of the beaming stars; of foaming waters issuing from glistening fields of snow and ice, and gathered and pooled in lakes reflecting peak and spire in skies of melting azure; of streams forever clasped in the arms of the brooding forest and foam-flecked gorge; place mountain meadows sweet and odorous with the scent of lilies, of roses, of orchids rare and delicate; clothe broad alpine slopes with soft green coats of fragrant balsam, pine, fir, and aspen, and populate them with bighorn, deer, elk, bear, beaver, cougar, wolf, and the other quadruped multitudes of the oberland; fill the streams with the play and flash of silvery-finned companies; in the dizzy reaches of the uplifted skies place the American eagle enthroned among the clouds; and in the low recesses of valley, of canon, glade and wood, place wing and voice of the ecstatic lark and thrush and other innumerable and melodious warblers of sylvan song, and with them the diaphanous winged myriads of an insect world of brilliant moth and butterfly, and where the wild bee hoards honeyed treasures supped from blooms of ravishing beauty; then in the heart of this teeming wonderland, piercing the very bosom of the empyrean, stand one great peak—a glorious shaft of gleaming granite—so noble, so vast in its overwhelming beetling solitude of grandeur that the spectacle stills the very heart with infinite awe; then over all, from the great peak's lofty brow down to the depths of the shining stream-paved bed of the deepest canon, dash the golden beams of a Colorado sunrise summoning the mountain world to the shrine of a perfect day—this is Longs Peak in the midst of the Rocky Mountain National Park; this is the crest of the American continent, the heart of the Rocky Mountains; here is the beauty, the inspiration, the romance, of Denver's Great-White-Way—her two hundred miles of peerless mountains—the Snowy Range!

Classic French Perfume Books-Le Parfum Chez la Plante by Eugene Charabot and C. L. Gatin

Le Parfum Chez la Plante by Eugene Charabot and C. L. Gatin

Classics of French Perfumery-Traité des odeurs; suite du Traité de la distillation (1788)

Traité des odeurs; suite du Traité de la distillation (1788)

Fragrance Quote December 23rdt, 2011 from The Alps in nature and history By William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge

Sometimes the Alpine traveller is pleasantly surprised by sweet scents when no flowers are visible. I remember lunching
beside a torrent in the Val di Forzo, a tributary of the Val d'Orco, when, as I leant back against the green bank above the little stream by the side of which we were resting, a very sweet scent came floating on the air. I immediately began to search for the source of the fragrance and found it in some well-developed clumps of the mountain Cyclamen (Cyclamen europaeum). This plant in its favourite habitat, when in large numbers and in full flower, is one of the most charming of all.
The Alps in nature and history
By William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge

Perfumery Raw Materials and Fragrance Notes

Fragrance Notes and Perfume Lexicon Series from Bois de Jasmin

Perfumery Materials from the Perfume Shrine

Decoding Obscure Notes - A Series About the Building Blocks of Natural Perfumery by Ayala Sender

A small guide to Nature's fragrances - aspects of the chemistry of the essential oils (and other materials of perfumery or culinary interest) by Bo Jensen

Fragrantica Perfumery Raw Materials

Perfumery Raw Materials-Beeswax

Beeswax absolute
Beeswax absolute is extracted from the wax of bees, Apies mellifera. The wax is produced all over the world and the exact odor of the absolute depends on the aroma of the pollen of the flowers that go into making up the honey that in turn penetrates into the honeycomb or wax.

In general though it can be said that Beeswax Absolute is a solid waxy mass of pale yellow to dark gold color with a delicate soft, warm, sweet, powdery-waxy odor with a diffusive herbaceous, rich hay-like undertone.

Beeswax absolute is used in perfumes where one wishes to convey the sense of a aroma-laden herb garden or a fragrant wild flower meadow. It is also valued for its role of rounding off the rough edges of a composition. Its aromatic impact in a composition may be small but its warming, softening, harmonizing effect is pronounced.

It blends well with helichrysum eo, flouve eo, hay absolute, honey absolute, jasmin abs, mimosa abs, rose absolute, boronia abs, cassie abs, Aglaia odorata abs, orange blossom abs, ylang eo and abs, rose otto and abs,, chamomile eo, broom abs, , bakul abs, tuberose abs.

Beeswax in Perfumes


Beeswax (Apis Mellifera)

Cosmetics additives: an industrial guide
By Ernest W. Flick

Perfumery: practice and principles
By Robert R. Calkin, Joseph Stephan Jellinek

Sonoma Scent Studio

Raw materials of perfumery, their nature, occurrence and employment - Parry, Ernest John

Raw materials of perfumery, their nature, occurrence and employment - Parry, Ernest John

Fragrance Quote for December 22nd, 2002 from Walks in New England By Charles Goodrich Whiting

The forest bloom has departed, the birds have flown, the squirrels and the boys are a-nutting; on the roadsides few flowers besides the asters linger and the long sprays of the wreath goldenrod, the humbler members of the sunflower kindred and the late gentians; in the fields appear those second blossoms that spring from the mowed down golden-rods, ox-eye daisies and black-eyed Susans. Down the forest aisles streams the unique magnetic fragrance of the witch hazel, which only of all fragrances could harmonize with the sacred sweetness of the autumn woodland. A familiar of the flowers knows that a month hence he shall find these and a score of flowers besides, in places that he wots of, but to the general eye the gay children of Nature have departed, and winter seems waiting around the corner to close the door.
Fragrance Quote for December 22nd, 2002 from Walks in New England By Charles Goodrich Whiting

The chemistry of essential oils and artificial perfumes (1918)-Volume 2

The chemistry of essential oils and artificial perfumes (1918)-Volume 2
Constituents of Essential oils, synthetic perfumes and isolated aromatics

The chemistry of essential oils and artificial perfumes (1918)-Volume 1 by Ernest John Parry

The chemistry of essential oils and artificial perfumes (1918)-Volume 1 by Ernest John Parry
Monographs on Essential Oils with 52 Illustrations

Essential Oils-Volume 1(History, Origin in Plants, Production, Analysis) by Ernest Guenther

Essential Oils-Volume 1(History, Origin in Plants, Production, Analysis) by Ernest Guenther

The Carolina Mountains by Margaret W. Morley

The Carolina Mountains by Margaret W. Morley

Fragrance Quote December 21st, 2011 from The Moors: a comprehensive description By Budgett Meakin

Then a grateful odour of mint leads us to turn our steps to the cool, well-watered fruit and vegetable market, always a refreshing retreat in Summer. * Down the centre the mint, which the Moors Market take in tea, is piled up by the donkey-load, fresh and green, in enormous quantities, while other sweet herbs in abundance add to the pleasant fragrance. Coriander, cummin, parsley, marjoram, verbena, celery and sage scent the air in turn, and one lingers over the delicious oranges which are too tempting to be passed untasted.

Fragrance Quote December 21st, 2011 from The Moors: a comprehensive description By Budgett Meakin

Language of Fragrance-brackish to burning



The faint odour of wild lavender was mingled with the brackish scent of the sea.
Jeanne of the marshes
Edward Phillips Oppenheim

After some twenty miles the road changes its course, and runs northwesterly instead of due north, so that between it and the sea is placed a briny, swampy jungle with an evil brackish smell....
Blackwood's magazine

Their delicious fragrance struggled against the brackish odor of the slime, and when a faint breeze raised the mist, that fragrance and that strange odor reached the nostrils alternately.
The sin of Monsieur Autoine
George Sand



There a briny smell floats to me from the marshes. I am aware by touch and smell of spaces covered with grass, moss, or the fading, rustling leaves of autumn.
The New outlook for the blind
Massachusetts Association for Promoting the Interests of the Adult Blind, American Foundation for the Blind

At times we drove by some old steep-roofed barn, and the odor of milch cows was mingled with the briny scent of dulse and kelp.
The Overland monthly

The cooling splash of the fountainous jets on the hot upper ledges ;
The briny odor, the sibilant, guttural and thunderous-booming tumult,
Compose what a stimulant, revivifying ensemble of sight, smell and sound !
The Conservator
Horace Traubel, Anne Montgomerie



The heater gave the characteristic burning odor of burning dust particles.

And the burning smell is there — and the soot is there, and the oil is there — and he is not there!' — Tony ends this with a groan.
The works of Charles Dickens ...
Charles Dickens.

But as the doors were all alike and very numerous, in his confusion he did not Jake the right one, but entered instead of the gallery, a chamber softly lighted by silver urns of burning aroma.
The wife's sister; or The forbidden marriage
By Catherine Anne Austen Hubback

Language of Fragrance-Aromatic to Attractive


Aroma defined

The leaves of this plant, when broken, send forth a strong aromatic scent ; the roots are much stronger, and have been long used in medicine.

Some of the mints exhale an aromatic perfume from the oil-glands of their leaves, and as mints are usually bitter the smell may warn away those animals which dislike them before they have tasted them.

The herbage exhales a strong, pungent, aromatic smell, approaching to that of mentha pulegium, and very grateful to cats.

Pinks and cloves are possessed of a peculiar aromatic fragrance which makes them favourites, especially the white and true old pinks and the true clove.

During a triumph, or on the approach of a triumphal procession, sweet spices and fragrant flowers were thrown about the streets, and aromatic incense was burnt on the altars of the gods ; thus diffusing their blended perfumes far and wide...


Artificial defined

At the same time it should be remembered that it is an almost general rule that the artificial perfumes have usually a harsher and less delicate odour than the natural ones....

It results in something like the effect of an artificial scent, compared to the whiff you get from the flowers themselves.

We can easily guess the reason, because it is natural to suspect that in some cases an artificial odor conceals a natural one that is unpleasant.

You should also notice the use of oils and flavorings to impart artificial aroma.


Ascend defined

I hold a violet before your nose, you bend over it till your faculties of smell combino with the ascending fragrance (stimuli) of the violet. When this is done, you say, "I smell the violet."

Deliberately I had decided that I would not work, and strolled up through the green, sun-ascending perfumes to the gorse and heather at the top of the pine wood.

In the gallery surrounding the dome, he put his chin over the balustrade, when an ascending fragrance immediately regaled his nose.

While the odor of ascending incense denotes devout sacrifice and prayer penetrating to heaven, the clouds of incense floating round about signify the effects of prayer and sacrifice....


Astonish defined

All heaven had then been concerned in him, had moved round him, and imparted to his slightest actions a peculiar sense, an astonishing perfume, which seemed to cling faintly to his clothes, to his very skin.

They "diffuse a truly astonishing fragrance of which it is almost impossible to form a conception."

Though the flowers of this plant are far from being handsome, yet its astonishing fragrance renders it exceedingly valuable in any collection.


Attractive defined

Here is the pollen : here is the attractive scent : here is the rewarding honey and the " honey-guides," as the fine lines are termed, to lead the insect visitor ; but the insect visitor hardly ever comes...

Flowers are given these attractive perfumes in order that they may attract the bees and other insects in this way.

The Hebrew women were accustomed to carry little bags or bottles of myrrh suspended from their necks and hanging down between tha breasts under the dress, diffusing an attractive fragrance round them.

The leaves are actually so used in Sumatra, but being destitute of any attractive aroma such as is possessed by both tea and coffee, the infusion is not palatable.

The Poet's Calendar by Henry Wordsworth Longfellow

The Poet's Calendar by Henry Wordsworth Longfellow

Fragrance Quote December 20th, 2011 from Dedication by Edith Nesbit

Dedication by Edith Nesbit

In any meadow where your feet may tread,
In any garland that your love may wear,
May be the flower whose hidden fragrance shed
Wakes some old hope or numbs some old despair,
And makes life's grief not quite so hard to bear,
And makes life's joy more poignant and more dear
Because of some delight dead many a year.

Or in some cottage garden there may be
The flower whose scent is memory for you;
The sturdy southernwood, the frail sweet-pea
Bring back the swallow's cheep, the pigeon's coo,
And youth and hope, and all the dreams they knew—
The evening star, the hedges gray with mist,
The silent porch where Love's first kiss was kissed.

So in my garland may you chance to find
Or royal rose or quiet meadow flower,
Whose scent may be with some dear dream entwined,
And give you back the ghost of some sweet hour,
As lilies fragrant from an August shower,
Or airs of June that over bean-fields blow,
Bring back the sweetness of my long ago!

Laboratory of Flowers by Goldthorn Hill

Laboratory of Flowers by Goldthorn Hill

Fragrance Quote December 19th 2011 from FROM THEY HISTORY OF Photogen and Necteris by George MacDonald

FROM THEY HISTORY OF Photogen and Nycteris

But the flowers! ah, the flowers! she was friends with them from the very first. What wonderful creatures they were!—and so kind and beautiful—always sending out such colours and such scents—red scent, and white scent, and yellow scent—for the other creatures! The one that was invisible and everywhere, took such a quantity of their scents, and carried it away! yet they did not seem to mind. It was their talk, to show they were alive, and not painted like those on the walls of her rooms, and on the carpets.

Language of Fragrance-admirable to ambrosial


Definition of admiration

In the Spring the Fields are adorn'd with beautiful Flowers of all Colours and forts, and of an admirable Scent, from whence they distil a sine Liquid called Angels Water, which makes a noble Perfume.

Emperor Jehan Ghir, with Nur Jehan AD 1612, a canal in the garden of the palace was filled with rose water, and that the princess, observing a certain scum on the surface, caused it to be collected, and found it of admirable fragrance...

The "Martha Washington" of Bicksecker is an admirable perfume and cannot fail to be highly appreciated by persons of refined taste.


definition of adore

The big, low-ceilinged, oak- beamed farm-house parlour was full of the deep golden sunlight of the late afternoon, the air was heavy with the scent of roses and sweet-peas and mignonette, the adorable fragrance of English country- house ...

Mrs. Camperdown flung open the window and the faint adorable scent of drenched, growing things drifted into the room.

Oh, the adorable smell of wet leaves and earth refreshed!


definition of agree

While burning, the inodorous resin decomposes, and gives off an agreeable scent.

From the interior parts of the country is brought by the Indians a very agreeable Perfume, which is contained in the buds of a small tree.

Lada'num is a gum-resinous substance, of a very agreeable smell, found in the shops in great masses.
Timson was for a brief space invisible, and I was left alone in the room with the odors of this tremendous bow-pot, which filled the whole of the inky, smutty, dingy apartment with an agreeable incense


Definition of aggression

Most of the other women wore gowns of the same type, and he seemed to be enveloped in a sweet, aggressive scent that he found a little overwhelming on the whole.

Certain it is that the white stems have a very greasy, gummy feel and a rank, aggressive odor.

She was drowning in a sea of suburban smiles, suffocated in the wild millinery and aggressive perfume and dyed hair of over-demonstrative creatures, gushing at her with expensive sets of false teeth.

For in this warehouse were kept the well known salt fish, that edible whose only rival in aggressive fragrance is the equally famous Limburger cheese.


Definition of allure

The insidiously alluring perfume of sand verbena rose like altar incense around them.

It was an alluring scent, the sort of odor that roused all his curiosity and seemed to call for prompt investigation.

Over his shoulder Dick could see a long trunk nosing its way gingerly through the broken pane and searching out the source of the alluring smell.

But what is this alluring fragrance upon the air? What sweet perfume is this which so beguiles the senses?

The alluring aroma of coffee permeated the hay-cock.

The only romantic thing about the sea-chest was its alluring odor, and when the last book was out, she had not found so much as a single sprig of coral!
When we are allowed to descend among the stunted trees we may investigate the sources of the music which has been floating up to us like a sweet and alluring incense.


Definition of amaze

So Agnes tended the plants, which must have loved her ; for they filled that cottage with more amazing perfume than the rarest of their kind thought it worth while to give forth in the King's palace.

From the hillside forest we were working our way toward sundown along a spur, following the guide's amazing scent over and under the age-rotted logs and mossy tangles that I markd as the temperate virgin forest.

Arrived at the house I sought, an amazing smell of soap-suds flew at me from the open door, as, with frothy arms, the woman of my search came in answer to my rap.

But when you come to talking or writing about it you scarcely know where to begin or what to say, there passes before your eye an exhibition of such an amazing fragrance and beauty of varying colors.


definition of ambrosia

Whenever the Olympian gods honoured a mortal with their visits, they left behind them an ambrosial odour, an unequivocal token of their divine nature.

Thus, as I have remarked before in the first chapter, the early poets never mention the apparilion of a goddess without speaking of the ambrosial fragrance which she shed around her.

Homer mentions the beard of Jupiter as diffusing odours when he nods ; Milton has transferred the notion to Raphael, whose presence is indicated by the ambrosial scent of his wings ;

It has an amiable and clean look, grows in pastures of fresh springing grass, and has an ambrosial smell — an aroma different from and more pleasant than the strong catsuppy odour of the common mushroom.

Ambrosial essence one bestows in showers, And lavishly whole streams of perfume pours.

The mystery and romance of alchemy and pharmacy By Charles John Samuel Thompson

The mystery and romance of alchemy and pharmacy
By Charles John Samuel Thompson

Fragrance Quote December 18th, 2011 from Namgay Doola by Rudyard Kipling

Fragrance Quote December 15th, 2011 from Namgay Doola by Rudyard Kipling

The night had closed in rain and rolling clouds blotted out the lights of the villages in the valley. Forty miles away, untouched by cloud or storm, the white shoulder of Donga Pa—the Mountain of the Council of the Gods—upheld the evening star. The monkeys sang sorrowfully to each other as they hunted for dry roots in the fern-draped trees, and the last puff of the day-wind brought from the unseen villages the scent of damp wood smoke, hot cakes, dripping undergrowth, and rotting pine-cones. That smell is the true smell of the Himalayas, and if it once gets into the blood of a man he will, at the last, forgetting everything else, return to the Hills to die. The clouds closed and the smell went away, and there remained nothing in all the world except chilling white mists and the boom of the Sutlej River.

Language of Fragrance-Abide-Acrid

Abide; abiding

Definition of abide

The peculiar and long-abiding scent of this plant has no doubt had much to do in determining its significance, for what revives an all-but dead memory more effectually than the breath of an odour which hung about us somewhile, long ago?

The perfume of infinite delicacy, abiding fragrance and rare distinction.

Did you ever know me abide the smell of onions?

He became conscious of the abiding presence of an exceedingly offensive smell, which, he stated had never left him during the following six months.

The breeze freshened — became slightly more salt, less tinged with the abiding aroma of oil and garlic, wine and sardines.


definition of abomination

There is something superlative in its abominable odor which makes one speculate as to its object and the process of evolution by which it could have been contrived.

He bathed again that night and for many nights with care, trying to shake off the persistence of that abominable perfume.

You never want those little threepenny bottles of abominable scent which are fastened in rows to a piece of cardboard, headed with the inscription, "Select perfumes."

These, equally with ourselves, seemed overcome by the abominable smell emitted by the tree, which is known by the Singhalese as the goorcenda — a name expressive of this offensive quality of its wood.


definition of absorb

The first two classes — pomades and oils — are used simply as vehicles to absorb perfume and retain it for transportation.

It is now a well-known fact that fatty substances absorb scents.

This admitted air does not only bleach the butter— it also absorbs the aroma, peculiar to it, and makes it taste and smell like a tallow candle.

The butter, thus purified, loses all traces of its animal origin ; it is'odorless as the purest water, but wonderfully ready to absorb fragrance from scent-yielding substances near it. ...

It is a popular belief that milk will not absorb any of these odors if it is warmer than the surrounding air; that it exhales odors when warmer and absorbs odors only when colder than the atmosphere.


definition of abstract

From the same earth, sun and air one will abstract noxious vapor, poison and death; the other will abstract perfume, sustenance and life.

It was no special odour or collection of odours that could be distinguished — it was rather an abstract smell — and yet it gave a kind of solidity and nutriment to the air, and made you feel as if your lungs digested it.

He referred to the necessity of adopting such processes as should not abstract the aroma from fruits.


definition of acceptable

Rose, being a sweet odor in itself, needs no sweetening, but some odors would need more of the "sugar" and less or more of the pepper or vinegar, to develop them into acceptable perfumes.

The prayers are ascending, and the angel-priest gives the incense as accessory to the prayers, to imbue them with its acceptable fragrance and buoy them up to an approving God.

All this to Him is as the acceptable smell of holy incense !


definition of acrid

The pleasant acrid scent of the Walnut leaf recalls the homestead, and brings the recollection of farm-yard sounds.

Then, gradually, she became aware of a faint acrid odor; elusive, almost intangible, it yet seemed to encompass her and the snoring man by her side almost as a vapor might have done.

First I catch, as it steals out and into the cold, the perfume of a rose that stands on a table; then the fragrance of mignonette; and again, though fainter than at first, the delicate acrid aroma of hickory logs; and, quite distinct from any of these, something subtle and indefinable which only booklovers would recognize—a faint suggestion, brought out by the warmth, of many volumes in leather that have stood for years on their respective shelves.

The white root, as large as a hazelnut, is roundish, set with fibrils, fleshy and has an extremely acrid smell, irritating the eyes and nose especially when bruized, and a similar burning taste.

On the cold air of this last October night a thin haze hung, and the acrid fragrance from little bonfires of fallen leaves.

Fragrance in the Writings of Rabindranath Tagore

Gitanjali: song offerings
By Rabindranath Tagore






The gardener
By Rabindranath Tagore





The hungry stones: and other stories
By Rabindranath Tagore







Thought relics
By Rabindranath Tagore




Sādhanā: the realisation of life
By Rabindranath Tagore





Lover's gift and Crossing
By Rabindranath Tagore



Mashi: and other stories
By Rabindranath Tagore




The king of the dark chamber
By Rabindranath Tagore




Fruit gathering
By Rabindranath Tagore






Fragrance Quote Decemberr 17th 2011 from Heidi By Johanna Spyri

Heidi By Johanna Spyri

Heidi scampered hither and thither, shouting for joy. Now it was a whole group of red primroses; one place was perfectly blue with lovely gentians; and here and everywhere the tender blossoms of the yellow buttercups nodded and laughed in the sunlight. Carried away with delight by all the beckoning, glistening flowers, the child forgot the goats, and Peter also. Running now forwards, now back again; first on this side, then on that side; for here they were like red, and there like yellow sparkles, and she was tempted ir^ every direction. Gathering great handfuls of flowers, she stuffed them all into her apron; for she must carry them home with her, and place them in the hay in her bedroom, to make it look there as it did on the Alp.

Poor Peter was obliged to keep his eyes about him to-day; and those round eyes, that were not in the habit of moving very quickly, had enough to do. For the goats were like Heidi, they ran about everywhere, while Peter must whistle and shout and swing his rod to bring together all the wanderers.

"Where have you gotten to now, Heidi?" he called out, somewhat angrily. "Here," came back the reply from—. somewhere. Peter could see no one; for Heidi sat on the ground behind a little mound that was covered with the sweetest smelling prune flowers, and the whole air was perfumed. Heidi had never breathed anything so perfectly delicious. She seated herself among the bushes, and drew in the scent in long, full-drawn breathings.

Lichens by Mrs. Amelia E. Barr

Lichens by Mrs. Amelia E. Barr

Fragrance Quote December 16th, 2011 from The Farmer's Wife by Guy de Maupassant

After two hours' traveling over stony roads, across that green and monotonous plain, the vehicle entered one of those fruit-gardens which adorn the fronts of farmhouses, and drew up before an old structure falling into decay, where an old maid-servant stood waiting at the side of a young fellow who seized the horse's bridle.

We entered the farmhouse. The smoky kitchen was high and spacious. The copper utensils and the earthenware glistened under the reflection of the big fire. A cat lay asleep under the table. Within, you inhaled the odor of milk, of apples, of smoke, that indescribable smell peculiar to old houses where peasants have lived — the odor of the soil, of the walls, of furniture, of stale soup, of washing, and of the old inhabitants, the smell of animals and human beings intermingled, of things and of persons, the odor of time and of things that have passed away.

I went out to have a look at the farmyard. It was big, full of old apple-trees dwarfed and crooked, and laden with fruit which fell on the grass around them. In this farmyard the smell of apples was as strong as that of the orange-trees which blossom on the banks of southern rivers.

Four rows of beeches surrounded this inclosure. They were so tall that they seemed to touch the clouds, at this hour of nightfall, and their summits, through which the night winds passed, shook and sang a sad, interminable song.

A Day With Memory from The yearbook of American authors

A Day With Memory from The yearbook of American authors

A Day With Memory.

WHO does not enjoy taking a little backward look sometimes? Walk out into the May sunshine, breathe the sweet pure air and smell the fragrance of spicy woods and opening flowers. Is there anything that does not remind you of some long-ago time? The same blue sky once smiled on you when you were just beginning life's happy journey; just entering manhood or womanhood, and the sweet young faces that were grouped about you in a certain bright May-day years ago come back again to greet you now, and to laugh and to talk just as they used to do. And that robin's song; do you remember when the robins sang so blithely in your childhood about the dear old home? It was just such weather as this when you watched them flying back and forth, lighting on a twig here and there, to pour forth a gush of melody. Ah, how it all comes back to-day, and how many changes have occurred since those glad days of youth have vanished. Yonder is a bed of flowers; think a moment, — don't they remind you of the old garden that mother loved? Columbine, phlox, rosemary, lavender," love lies bleeding," clove pinks, and mignonette, — they are all sweet perfumes of the past; little things, you say, but powerful enough to draw you, by their subtle fragrance, " down the dim avenues of time," and into the old haunts of Memory.

But future years may never fling
A treasure from their passing hours,

Like those that come on sleepless wing,
From Memory's golden plain of flowers.


2011 from Youth by Leo Tolstoy, Fragrance Quote December 15th

Have you ever happened to fall asleep on a gloomy, rainy summer day, and, awaking at sundown, to open your eyes; through the broadening quadrilateral of the window, beneath the canvas awning, that, blown up by the wind, strikes its rod against the window-sill, to observe the shady, lilac side of the avenue of lindens, wet from rain, and the damp garden path, illuminated by the slanting rays of the sun; suddenly to hear the merry life of the birds in the garden; to see the insects that, translucent in the sun, hover in the opening of the window; to smell the fragrance of the air after the rain; to think "How ashamed I am to have slept through such an evening ;" and hurriedly to jump up, in order to run into the garden to enjoy life? If such a thing has happened to you, you have a picture of that powerful feeling which I experienced at that time.
2011 from Youth by Leo Tolstoy, Fragrance Quote December 15th

The Fragrance of Wild Sweet Briar by Francis George Heath

The Fragrance of Wild Sweet Briar by Francis George Heath

HOW delightful to wander into some woodland glade in the early morning of a summer Sunday! It is doubtless a conventional expression to speak of 'early morning' when it is past six o'clock. The luxurious habits of the age cause us to turn day into night and night into day, at a loss "r" to ourselves which is incalculable. Yet it is not all our fault. If this is an age of pleasure, it is also an age of hard work. We are compelled, to a large extent, to work our bodies and our brains far into the night; and the early morning finds us wrapped in slumber when we might, but for our nocturnal labours, have been basking in the glorious rays of the early morning sun. Yet who that has gone to some rural spot away from the town, and arrived at his destination late in the day, has not often felt the strange awakening influence of the summer sun, giving him an intimation that at least for the period of his stay in the country he must conform to country life, take rest at the commencement of summer night, and rise with the birds in the early morning? If he should do this, he may wander out from his headquarters, and find not one solitary inhabitant astir—the whole district—so far as its human population is concerned—being steeped in slumber. But he will find that the woods and fields are ringing with the songs of the birds who have risen long before, and are in full carol.

On some Sunday morning we may start for our early ramble at a later hour than on any one of the weekdays; for the poor inhabitants of a country village seek a change on the Sabbath from their weekday habits, and, wearied with their hard weekday labours, they sleep during the earlier hours of the Sunday morning. To those wanderers from town, therefore, who desire to enjoy in its greatest perfection the calm of a country ramble, there is no time so exquisitely enjoyable as the early summer Sunday.

Where shall we first bend our steps, as we leave our quarters at the 'Crown' Inn, in this charming woodland village? We care to have no other guide than our own fancy. Our bedroom window faces south, fronting the simple village church, placed, with its rustic burying-ground, on the acclivity of a tiny knoll. From the churchyard level we can see a little of the surrounding woodland, but only enough to make us long for further exploration. So we leave the churchyard, and at its western end pass along the winding road, fringed by Beech and Oak, Birch and Elm, which intermingle their varying foliage; and, by taking an upland turn where a sign-post points 'To Minstead,' we soon find ourselves—by diverging from our road to the left, at a point a few yards from the turning where an Oak flings its branches across nearly the whole width of the carriage way— on the wooded hillside. We pass, under shelter of Oak and Beech, through glades of brake, with growth of Hawthorn, blackberry, and dog rose— now surrounded by glorious Trees, anon getting some distant peep of woodland. Now, in the open sun-lit glade, we breathe the sweet fragrance of the Honeysuckle, twining its creeping stem around the contorted body of some stalwart Hawthorn; now, passing for a moment under the deep shelter of Trees, we scent the sweet mysterious perfume of the wild briar. How often have we unavailingly searched for this beautiful shrub, whose fragrance appears to come and go with strange irregularity! Passing through some forest undergrowth, we have been arrested by the exquisite fragrance of the sweet-briar suddenly bursting upon us from what direction we knew not. Some leaves of dogrose have perhaps been near; and, momentarily deceived by the similarity of form, we have handled them to detect, if possible, by pressure the sweet scent which has attracted us. But we discover it is not the perfumed briar which we handle; and though we have searched far and near, the delicious fragrance of the thorny shrub meanwhile coming to us from time to time in sweet spasmodic gusts, we have frequently failed to discover its whereabouts.

Fragrance Quote for December 14th,2011- from Wind in the Willows by Kenneth Grahame

Fragrance Quote for December 14th,2011- from Wind in the Willows by Kenneth Grahame

'Now, cheer up, Toad,' she said, coaxingly, on entering, 'and sit up and dry your eyes and be a sensible animal. And do try and eat a bit of dinner. See, I've brought you some of mine, hot from the oven!'

It was bubble-and-squeak, between two plates, and its fragrance filled the narrow cell. The penetrating smell of cabbage reached the nose of Toad as he lay prostrate in his misery on the floor, and gave him the idea for a moment that perhaps life was not such a blank and desperate thing as he had imagined. But still he wailed, and kicked with his legs, and refused to be comforted. So the wise girl retired for the time, but, of course, a good deal of the smell of hot cabbage remained behind, as it will do, and Toad, between his sobs, sniffed and reflected, and gradually began to think new and inspiring thoughts: of chivalry, and poetry, and deeds still to be done; of broad meadows, and cattle browsing in them, raked by sun and wind; of kitchen-gardens, and straight herb borders, and warm snap-dragon beset by bees; and of the comforting clink of dishes set down on the table at Toad Hall, and the scrape of chair-legs on the floor as every one pulled himself close up to his work. The air of the narrow cell took a rosy tinge; be began to think of his friends, and how they would surely be able to do something; of lawyers, and how they would have enjoyed his case, and what an ass he had been not to get in a few; and lastly, he thought of his own great cleverness and resource, and all that he was capable of if he only gave his great mind to it; and the cure was almost complete.

When the girl returned, some hours later, she carried a tray, with a cup of fragrant tea steaming on it; and a plate piled up with very hot buttered toast, cut thick, very brown on both sides, with the butter running through the holes in it in great golden drops, like honey from the honeycomb. The smell of that buttered toast simply talked to Toad, and with no uncertain voice; talked of warm kitchens, of breakfasts on bright frosty mornings, of cosy parlour firesides on winter evenings, when one's ramble was over and slippered feet were propped on the fender; of the purring of contented cats, and the twitter of sleepy canaries. Toad sat up on end once more, dried his eyes, sipped his tea and munched his toast, and soon began talking freely about himself, and the house he lived in, and his doings there, and how important he was, and what a lot his friends thought of him.

Russian Leather/Cuir de Russie Recipes

The Palace of Tsar Berendey,
Russian Leather/Cuir de Russie Recipes

"The odor description , 'like Russian leather' is conventional, but somewhat incorrect. Russian leather smells of birch tar because the leather is tanned with the tar products which also preserve this special type of leather. This circle of association is similar to the well-known: vanillin smells like chocolate."
Steffen Arctander-Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin

In the very early years of the evolution of perfumery in the Western World, perfumed leather came into vogue. Unscented and tanned leather which was used in a great variety of clothes items, did not, of itself, have an appealing aroma so those who were involved in this industry sought to find some way to mask the unpleasant aroma, soften the leather and add natural color to it.
The secrets of perfuming leather first came into being in the city of Grasse. Prior to Grasse's becoming the center for perfumery, it was a town devoted to the tanning industry. It was discovered by the tanners there that, myrtle(Myrtus communis) imparted both a nice color and odor to the leather. From this initial discovery, others were soon made and a thriving industry of perfumed leather quickly evolved, the secrets of which were closely guarded.
But with all its attempts to guard the secrets of the trade, knowledge of how to perfume leather spread to other countries , the most prominent being Spain, England and Russia. Each country developed its own unique methods and techniques for tanning and perfuming leather-the one we will explore here concerns Russian leather.

In the case of Russian leather and the perfumes and colognes associated with it-one must realize this category of "leather scents" has little to with the smell of leather itself(as has been mentioned before-leather displays a rather unpleasant odor when being cured and tanned) but rather with the aromatics used in improving the color, quality or odor of the final product. In the case of Russian leather the one essence that most gives it the distinctive odor is birch tar which is a product produced by destructive distillation.

It is thought that sometime early in the 17th century Russian leather came into vogue was highly appreciated by the aristocratic families of Europe. The tanners of Russia, like in other countries, had to seek means of improving the leather products they were creating utilizing materials to be gathered in their natural environment. No one knows quite how they discovered the process of destructive distillation of birch bark for scenting leather(and all providing it with a natural insecticide and fungicide) but discover it they did and with an environment abounding in this beautiful tree which thrives in the cold northern climates they had ample supplies for their craft. All the processes involved in curing, tanning and scenting leather were closely guarded guild secrets and so for many years Russia had a virtual monopoly of this type of leather which was prized for its beauty, durability, suppleness and scent. It was used not only for making boots and shoes but also for items of furniture, coats, boxes and perhaps most important of all, book binding.

When birch tar is obtained by destructive distillation it produces an oil which is "distinctively phenolic, very penetrating, and diffusive, obviously reminiscent of tar, charred wood and smoke(all of which have their odor components from the birch tar oil) However the most characteristic feature in the odor pattern of birch tar oil the sweet-oily undertone which appears distinctly on the smelling blotter when the first empyreumatic notes have faded away. These notes caught the immediate interest of perfumers long ago, and the chemists tried to isolate these particular fractions of the oil...."
Steffen Arctander-Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin

The extraction of Birch tar is an industry of some importance in Russia: the process is said to be conducted in the following manner:—An iron vessel is filled with bark and covered with a close-fitting lid, through which is inserted an iron pipe. On this is inverted a smaller iron vessel ; the rims are carefully fitted together and well-luted with clay. The two vessels are then turned upside down, so that the one with the bark in it is uppermost. The apparatus is half sunk in the ground, well-banked with a mixture of sand and clay, and a wood fire is kindled around it. When the distillation has continued long enough, the luting is removed and the two iron vessels separated; the lower one is found to contain the tar and pyroligneous acid, the yield of tar being about one-third by weight of the bark used. In some districts the retorts are made of clay and the connecting pipes are of wood, but the receivers are always placed in the earth. The crude tar is a thick, black, empyreumatie fluid, which, when caused to cover in a thin layer the side of a bottle in which it is contained, has a dark brownish tinge. After a mere trace of it has been rubbed on the hand, an odour like Russia leather is perceptible.
Odorographia: Volume 2
By John Charles Sawer

After reading through the early history of Russian leather and its scent, I thought to create a perfume which might capture something of its beauty as well as the spirit of the times when it was in vogue. The purpose of this Cuir de Russie recipe is not to copy any existing perfume, bouquet or cologne of that type but simply the feeling I got from reading about the subject

There is then a simple version of Russian leather which does not have any of the floral notes that later came to be associated with this category of perfumes. This is my idea of what a book bound in scented Russian Leather might smell like

Cuir de Russie-Simple

2 ounces Labdanum absolute
2 ounce Choya Loban(cedarwood based)
1/4th ounce Birch Tar Essential oil
1 ounce Virgina cedarwood
1/2 ounce Tonka Bean Absolute

It is thought that by 1830's, the French perfumers had discovered the secret of Russia's scented leather and had commenced distilling it themselves. A lot of effort was devoted to producing it as this particular aroma some how captured something of the spirit of the times as one encountered it in many different forms(books, clothes, furniture etc) At this point though the perfumers created a whole new branch of perfumery, the so-called "leather notes". Drawing on their already extensive knowledge of natural perfume materials such as tuberose, violet, jasmine, orange blossom, rose etc, they incorporated birch tar, and related materials into them to create their version of Cuir de Russie.

During the ensuing years several Cuir de Russie type perfumes came into being which gained more less popularity. It wasn't until the 1920's when the House of Chanel introduced their Cuir de Russie that a sophisticated perfume with a leather base became truly popular.

"The perfumes known as leathers were also a modern innovation in perfume making when Coco Chanel was visiting perfumers and their laboratories. The scents in fact have no leather in them, they depend on the late nineteenth century discovery of the scent materials known as quinolines. These molecules were first synthesized in the 1880's, and their smoky notes of tobacco and charcoal help these perfumes call forth the aromatic essence of soft, tanned leather. The most exclusive perfumes in this family-named after the premium birch-tar leathers of Europe's eastern empire-were scents known as cuir de Russie, or "Russian leather". It was the smell of rare leathers used at the imperial courts to wrap precious jewels. ..."
An imperial fragrance

The Russian influence at the heart of Mademoiselle's creations was born from her encounter with the Grand Duke Dimitri, cousin of Tsar Nicholas II. Cuir de Russie, launched in 1927, is the fragrance of wild cavalcades, wafts of blond tobacco and the smell of boots tanned by birch bark, which the Russian soldiers would wear.
This sensual fragrance reveals the dark and musky scents of balms, Frankincense and Juniper Wood. Fruity zests of Mandarin Orange and Bergamot add a touch of insolence before giving way to the grace and fragility of eternal flowers: Rose, Jasmine and Ylang-Ylang. A "thoroughbred" fragrance with a strong character, it holds within it the ambiguous secrets of femininity...
Chanel Web Site

Many other perfume houses followed with their own versions of Cuir de Russie and the fragrance remains popular to this day.

I decided to make an attempt at this sophisticated type of perfume as well drawing upon the light citrus notes topnotes, sweet floral heartnotes, and deep leathery, smoky, amber notes that give this essence its character.

Cuir de Russie Supreme

1 ounce Petitgrain Combava essential oil
2 ounces Lime essential oil
1 ounce Neroli essential Oil
1/4 ounce Rose Otto
1/2 ounce Jasmin grandiflorum absolute
1/2 ounce Ylang Extra
1/2 ounce Labdanum Absolute
1/2 ounce Amber essential oil
1/8 ounce Birch Tar essential oil

Please note that those who are interested in creating the above two perfume concentrates need to allow them to age for 6 months after they are blended. Then they can be further diluted in an appropriate base(alcohol or carrier oil) for making cologne, perfume, toilet water, etc

* Perfume extract, or simply perfume (Extrait): 15-40% (IFRA: typical 20%) aromatic compounds
* Esprit de Parfum (ESdP): 15-30% aromatic compounds, a seldom used strength concentration in between EdP and perfume
* Eau de Parfum (EdP), Parfum de Toilette (PdT): 10-20% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds, sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" or "millésime"
* Eau de toilette (EdT): 5-15% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds
* Eau de Cologne (EdC): Chypre citrus type perfumes with 3-8% (typical ~5%) aromatic compounds. "Original Eau de Cologne" is a registered trademark.
* Perfume mist: 3-8% aromatic compounds (typical non-alcohol solvent)
* Splash (EdS) and After shave: 1-3% aromatic compounds. "EdS" is a registered trademark.

Interesting Article on Russian Leather

In the 18th century, Russian leather was widely considered to be the finest in the world. It was known for being incredibly rich in color, supple, and water resistant. There was also something about its aroma that allowed it to repel insects. It was truly unique.

Tanneries in Western Europe tried to duplicate Russia’s distinctive, beautiful, and hardwearing leather. They even sent spies to try to uncover trade secrets. Unfortunately, very little became known. What they did find out, however, was that the pre-tanning stages alone took up to six months. During the tanning stage, the hides, soaking in previously-used tanning fluid, were more or less continuously turned by hand for about four months. Then they were transferred to pits where they soaked in water mixed with bark from willows, poplar, oak, and larch trees for about eighteen months. After that, they were cured, dried, beaten with mallets, pared with shaving knives, and then pulled over sharp-edged rings, which cut them with the fine cross-hatched scores they were known for.

Though the process was vaguely known, Western tanneries couldn’t reproduce it because they could never identify the formula for the mysterious dressing oils. By the time the Russian Revolution came in 1917, the new provisional government shut production down, and secrets of how it was made became lost for good.

Then, in 1973, a team of British deep-sea divers was exploring the waters of Plymouth Sound, where they found the broken timbers of a sunken ship. The ship’s bell identified it to be the Metta Catharina, a 100-ton Baltic ship that set sail from St. Petersburg and for Genoa in December 1786. She never made it, however, as she was sunk during a storm.

Littered around the seabed of the broken ship, the divers found bundles and bundles of hides. They brought the bundles up to surface, and when they untied them, the packages opened up like packs of vacuum-sealed coffee. Apparently, the hides’ immersion in black mud, combined with their mysterious oils, allowed them to go nearly 200 years with very little water penetrating.

At first, the divers didn’t even know what they found. They went to a bar the next night and casually talked about it. A young leather worker, Robin Snelson, overheard and asked if he could see the hides. They agreed.

Snelson developed a cleaning technique to help restore the hides to their original quality. Once cleaned, they beamed with rich colors, varying from deep claret to lighter sienna. They also revealed their cross-hatched surface, and began giving away their distinct sweet aroma. There was no other leather with this aroma, and it was clear these were the famed Russian leathers that was once only a historical legend.

Word spread, and in 1986, two bespoke shoemakers from Cleverly approached Snelson about using the hides for their shoes. Cleaverly is widely regarded as one of the best bespoke shoe making houses in the world, and everyone agreed that only they would do the hides justice.

I’m unsure how many shoes were made from the hides, but I think it was something around 200. Ready to wear pairs were sold for around $2,000, while bespoke pairs were around $5,000. The client list is private, but its been revealed that the first pair was made for Prince Charles.

Nobody knows how many hides are left buried in that wreck. Recovery has not been easy, and the job is incredibly dangerous. The bundles near the bows and stern have been cleared out, for the most part, but some believe there may be more in some of the unexplored areas. However, those areas are too dangerous to approach, and nobody has been willing to risk their lives for the additional hides. For now, it seems like the quantity above shore is all that there is.

The shoes have all been sold off by now, but some companies have enough scraps to make a few small accessories. For example, this company still makes wallets out of the 225 year-old Russian leather. The prices are expensive, but that’s the cost of owning a little bit of legendary menswear history.