Sweet, green-herbal essences




Sweet, green-herbal essences

Essences in this group include basil eo, co2 and absolute, golden rod eo, tarragon eo and abs

Aromatic terms associated with individual essences in this group

Basil, camphor chemotype(Ocimum basilicum) eo- fresh, sweet,green, herbaceous, camphoraceous, anisic
Basil, methyl chavicol chemotype(Ocimum basilicum) eo- fresh, green, spicy, balsamic-woody undertone
Goldenrod(Solidago odora) eo-sweet, spicy, aromatic, herbaceous, green, herbaceous
Tarragon/Estragon(Artemisia dracunculus) eo- sweet, anisic, green, spicy

These essences blend well with-
Blends well with:
agarwood eo and co2
amber eo
amyris eo
anise seed eo and co2
angelica seed eo and co2
angelic root eo, co2 and abs
atryactylis root oil
basil eo and co2
benzoin abs
bergamot eo
birch sweet eo
blood orange eo
bois de rose eo
caraway seed eo and co
carrot seed eo, co2 and abs
cassia eo and co2
cascarilla eo
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
clary sage eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
copaiba balsam
coriander eo and co2
cubeb eo
cumin seed eo, co2 and abs
currant bud, black abs
davana eo, co2 and abs
dill eo and co2
elder flower co2 and abs
elemi eo and abs
estragon/tarragon eo and abs
fennel eo and co2
fir needle eo and abs
geranium eo and abs
ginger eo, co2 and abs
guaiacwood eo
hop eo and co2
jonquil abs
juniperberry eo, co2 and abs
lavender eo, co2 and abs
lavindin eo and abs
lime eo
lotus absolute
narcissus absolut
oakmoss abs
oregano eo and co2
pepper black eo, co2 and abs
pepper pink eo and co2
petitgrain eo
rose eo, co2 and abs
seaweed abs
spearmint eo and abs
tagete eo and abs
thyme eo, co2 and abs
tolu balsam eo and abs
tuberose absolute
vanilla co2 and abs
violet leaf absolute
ylang abs and eo
wintergreen eo
wormwood eo

Used in herbal bouquets, chypre, culinary perfumes, mythological creations, chypres,
crepe de chine. This group of essences can be used in trace amounts in high class floral like muguet, lilac, mimosa, ylang, cassie, frangipanni, jonquil, narcissus, tea rose, lotus, heather, freesia, tea and verbena

In perfumes, Sweet Basil oil has been a"classic" material in the "origan" type of perfumes and bases for several decades. In chypres, crepe de chines and certain modern-aldehydic and "green" perfume types, the oil can introduce very interesting effect."
Goldenrod eo "could find some use in perfumes of fougere type, chypre, l' origan, moss etc., or in trace amounts in lilac, muguent, etc
Estragon/Tarragon oil "is used in trace amounts in chypre, l' Origan types, fougere, lilac... baes, green floral bases

Grassy, Fresh, Lemon-like Essences




Grassy, Fresh, Lemon-like Essences

Lemon myrtle(Backhousia citriodora) eo-fresh, lemon-like, sweet-green undertone, clean
Eucalyptus staigeriana eo-sweet, fresh , fruity -lemony
Lemongrass(Cymbopogon citratus and C. flexuousus)-strong, fresh-grassy, lemon-like, herbaceous, tea-like, sweet
Lemon Tea Tree(Leptospermum petersoni) eo-stong, fresh, sweet, sharp, punguent
May chang(Litsea cubeba) eo-lemon-like, fresh, swweet, soft, sweet fruity
Lemon balm(Melissa officinalis) eo-pleasant, sweet, lemon-like, delicate floral, green herbaceoous
Verbena, Lemon(Lippia citriodora) eo-fresh, lemon-like, sweet and fruity bodynote
Verbena,Spanish(Thymus hiemalis) eo-powerful, fresh, lemon-like, herbaceous, rich and sweet, sage-like undertone

These essences blend well with:
amyris eo
bay leaf eo
benzoin abs
bergamot eo
blood orange eo
bois de rose eo
caraway eo and co2
cardamon eo, co2 and abs
carrot seed eo, co2 and abs
cassia bark eo and co2
cassie abs
citronella eo
clary sage eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
clove leaf eo
coriander eo and co2
elemi eo and abs
fir needle eo's
galbanum eo, co2 and abs
geranium eo and abs
grapefruit eo and essence
hay abs
ho leaf eo
how wood eo
jasmine abs
lavender eo, co2 and abs
lemonbalm eo, co2 an abs
lemongrass eo
lemon eo and essence
lime eo and essence
litsea cubeba eo
mimosa abs
neroli eo
orange bitter eo
palmarosa eo
petitgrain eo's
tonka bean abs
vanilla bean abs and cow
verbena eo
violet leaf abs
yuzu eo and abs
ylang abs and eo

In natural perfumery used in colognes, soap perfumes rose bases, herbal accords, floral perfumes(top notes), chypres, after shave lotion


Perfume notes from Steffen Aratanders Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural origin-

Eucalyptus staigeriana-"The particular odor of this oil makes it immediately interesting for use in fresh-rosy type of soap perfume, detergent fragrances, etcBut its stability in soap is not particularly good.."

Lemon Tea Tree-"The power and diffusiveness or the oil is simply striking. It is an excellent base for detergents or soap-flake perfumes of the citronella or lemongrass-lemon type. In minute quantities, it will impart a sweet freshness to colognes, fougeres, lavenders for saop, air refreshners etc"

May Chang eo-"For use in perfumes, litsea cubeba oil could replace lemongrass to a certain degree, but the Chinese oil would probably find better use in artificial verbena bases, colognes, household sprays, air refreshners..."

Verbena, Lemon eo-"Verbena oil found some use in the "old-fashioned citrus colognes where it offered a delightful freshness and clean top note, superior to the effects that could be obtained with lemon oil 30-40 years ago. A special "Eau de Verveine" is still known and fairly popular in France and Central Europe, South America, etc. For this purpose the verbena oil was blended with citrus oils, neroli oil, palmarosa oil, heliotropine, iononees, nitromusks, aldehydes, spice oils, olibanum, tolu or elemi resinoid..."

Lemon, Spanish eo-"used in colognes, chypres, after shave lotion perfumes, etc"

Peppery Essences

Peppery Essences

Essences in this group include Atractylis eo and absolute; black pepper eo, co2 and abs;
pink pepper eo co2

Aromatic terms used to describe individual essences in this group

Black Pepper(Piper nigrum) eo-fresh, dry-woody, warm-spicy, punguent
Pink Pepper(Schinus molle) eo-fresh, woody-peppery, warm-spicy, sharp, dry, woody-smoky undertone
Atracytylis(Atractylis ovata)eo-woody-spicy, strong peppery, warm and dry, punguent

These essences blend well with:
Agarwood eo and co2
amber eo
ambari attar
ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs
anise eo and co2
amyris eo
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
araucaria eo
artemisia eo's
benzoin abs
birch tar eo
cabreuva eo
cade eo
calamus eo and co2
cardamom eo, co2 and abs
cassie abs
cedarleaf eo
choya nakh, ral and loban
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
cinnamon leaf eo
cassia eo and co2
cascarill eo
cedarwood eo's and abs
cistus eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
copaiba balsam eo
costus eo and co2
cubeb eo
elemi eo and abs
davana eo, co2 and abs
fennel eo and co2
fir eo's
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
galangal eo and co2
ginger eo, co2 and abs
hop eo and co2
jasmin abs and attar
juniperberry eo, co2 and abs
labdanum eo and abs
lotus abs
mace eo and co2
mastic eo and abs
mimosa abs
muhuhu eo
musk black attar
nagarmotha eo,co2 and abs
naricussu abs
guaicawood eo
opoponax eo and abs
orange blossom abs
parsley seed eo
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
pepper pink eo and co2
pepper black eo, co2 and abs
peru balsam eo and abs
pimento berry eo, co2 and abs
pine needle eo and abs
pimento leaf eo
poplar bud eo and abs
rose eo, co2 and abs
sage eo and co2
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
shamama attar
siamwood eo
snakeroot/asarum canadensis eo
spikenard eo, co2 and abs
styrax eo and abs
sugi wood eo
tansy eo
tolu balsam eo and abs
tumeric eo, co2 and abs
valarian eo and co2
vetiver eo, co2 and abs
zeodoary eo
zradevtz eo and abs

In natural perfumery used in culinary perfumes, incense bouquets, spicy accords, Oriental bases, amber accords, precious wood bouquets, high class florals(gardenia, jasmin, carnation, honeysuckle, mimosa, narcissus, orange blossom, hawthorn, lily of the valley, rose) fougere


Perfumery uses as quoted from Steffen Arctander in Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
Black pepper-"In perfumery the oils givses interesting effects with eugenol and isoeugenol. eg in carnation and rose bases, in Oriental fragrances, or in moednr, dry-aldhydic bases, ambers, etc. The effect in rose is particularly interesting...
Pink pepper-"Apart for its individual character and possible used in perfumery "for woody-spicy, warm and powdery notes"
"Atractylis oil is very useful in perfumery where its excellent fixative effect and surprising power can be utilized in heavy oriental bases, woody fragrances, spicy and dry ambra types..."

Sulphuraceous Essences




Sulphuraceous/Alliaceous Essences

In this group of essences are included garlic eo and co2 and asafoetida eo and abs.

Aromatic terminology connected with the individual essences

Asafoetida eo(Ferula assafoetida)-sharp, alliaceous, acrid, garlic-like, onion-like, powerful, raidant,punguent
Asafoetida absolute(Ferula assafoetida)-alliaceous, garlic-like, onion-like, rich and balsamic sweet undertone
Garlic eo(Allium sativum)-intense, sulfurous, odor. True odor delicate, diffusive powerful odor of garlic is masked by a putrid odor which may be a product of high heat during distillation
Garlic co2(Allium sativum)- the putrid odor found in the essential oil is not present in the co2 extract so when gets the full, potent, diffusive, sulfuraceous odor of fresh garlic


In natural pefumery work only the Asfoetida absolute is used in very low dilution. It can be used in certain floral bases, Oriental perfumes, spice accords, culinary perfumes. It is one of those special intense essences that can produce unique results in the hands of the creative perfumer

In natural perfumery blends well with:
Angelica root eo, co2 and abs
Anise star eo and co2
black musk attar
cardamom eo, co2 and abs
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
camphor white eo
cananga eo
cascarilla eo
cassia eo and co2
cedarwood, red heartwood eo
cedarwood, virginia eo
celery see eo, co2 and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
cumin eo, co2 and abs
fenukgreek eo, co2 and abs
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
galbanum eo, co2 and abs
ginger eo, co2 and abs
lovage root eo and co2
mace eo and co2
mastic eo and abs
myrrh eo and co2
nutmeg eo, co2 and abs
omanthus abs
opoponax eo and abs
pepper black eo, co2 and abs
pepper pink eo and co2
peru balsam eo and abs
pimenta berry eo and abs
rose eo, co2 and abs
ruh kewda
sage clary eo and abs
shammama attar
spikenard eo and co2
tolu balsam eo and abs
tonka bean abs
tuberose abs
turmeric eo and co2
vanilla co2 and abs
ylang abs and eo



"A low concentration of Asafoetida Absolute can introduce very intriguing notes in rose bases and heavy, Oriental perfumes"-S. Arctander

Thuja Group(Green, medicinal, herbaceous)



Thuja Group(Green, medicinal, herbaceous)


Artemisia alba-bitter , herbaceous, powerful , green, medicinal
Artemisia vulgaris-powerful, fresh-camphoraceous, green, bitter-sweet, medicinal cedarleaf-like top note and sage-rosemary-like body note. Dryout-pleasant, sweet-herbaceous, tealike
Cedarleaf(Thuja plicata and Thuja orientalis)-sharp, fresh, camphoraceous, sweet undertone, minty, herbaceous
Wormwood(Artemisia absinthium)-intensely green herbacoues, warm, deep, sharp and fresh topnote, leather-like, tenacious, dry-woody

These essences blend well with
agarwood eo and co2
amber eo
amyris wood eo
anise star eo and co2
armoise eo
arnica eo and abs
basil eo, co2 and abs
benzoin absolute
birch tar eo
birch sweet eo
bois de rose eo
bucchu leaf eo and abs
cade eo
calamus eo, co2 and abs
caraway seed eo and co2
carrot seed eo, co2 and abs
cassia bark oileo and co2
cedarleaf oil western red
cedarwood,atlas eo
cedarwood oil himalaya eo
cedarwood oil texas eo
cedarwood oil virginia eo
choya nakh, ral and loban
cistus eo and abs
citronella eo
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
clove sweet abs
costus eo and co2
cubeb eo
cyperus/nagarmotha eo, co2 and abs
cypress eo and abs
eucalyptus eo and abs
davana eo, co2 and abs
dill eo and co2
fennel eo and co2
fir balsam eo and absolute
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
geranium eo and abs
guaiacwood e0
hemlock spruce blue eo
henna leaf abs and co2
hibawood eo
ho leaf eo
ho wood eo
huon pine wood eo
hyssop eo and co2
juniper berry eo, co2 and abs
labdanum eo and abs
lavandin eo and abs
lavender absolute, eo and co2
marigold abs
mastic eo and abs
opoponax eo and abs
oregano eo and co2
palmarosa eo
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
petitgrain eo,s(mandrin, combava, bigarade, bergamot and lemon)
rose leaf absolute
rosemary oil
sage oil eo cand co2
spearmint eo, co2 and abs
sugi wood eo
tansy flower eo
tarragon eo and abs
tea, black abs
tea green abs
tonka bean absolute
vetiver eo,co2 and abs
wintergreen eo

In natural perfumery can be used in sacred blends; incense perfumes, fougere, chypre, forest notes, colognes, herbal bouquets

Artemisia alba-"The 'greeness' in odor type and the peculiar bitter aroma of this oil makes in an intereting item for chypre, fougere, 'forest' notes, after shave colognes, etc."
Artemisia vulgaris-"The essential oil is used in perfumery to add freshness and warmth to lavender colognes, chypres, fougeres, pine fragrances, etc. The oil shows great power and diffusiveness and is stable in soaps."

Cedarleaf(Thuja plicata and Thuja orientalis)-"Its green, sweet-herbaceous, although medicinal and camphoraceous-minty note blends well with pine needle oils, citrus oils, lavandin and rosemary in chypre or fougere bases. The oil has even been used as a piquant top note in high class perfumes."

Bitter, Herbaceous, Phenolic or Medicinal group of essences



Bitter, Herbaceous, Phenolic or Medicinal group of essences


Aromatic terms related to individual essences in this group:

Betel essential oil-phenolic, tar like, smoky

Calendula abs(Calendula officinalis)-intense bitter, green herbacous

Mate absolute(Ilex paraguanyensis)-rich-herbaceous, green, dry-leafy, woody-foliage like, phenlolic, smoky, medicinal

Oregano eo(Origanum vulgare)-powerful, refreshing, green-camphoraceous spicy-herbaceous, medicinal, phenolic, dry-woody


Blends well with
ajowan eo
agarwood eo and co2
aglaia odorata seed abs
amberi attar
ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs
amyris eo
anise eo
anise star eo and co2
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
angelica seed eo and co2
araucaria eo
arnica abs
artemisia eo's
balsam gurjum eo
benzoin abs
bergamot eo
betel eo
birch, sweet eo
black currant abs
bois de rose/rosewood eo
cabreuva eo
calamus eo and co2
camphor eo
cananga eo
carrot seed eo, co2 and abs
cascarilla eo
cassia bark eo, co2 and abs
cedarwood eo's(viriginia, himalayan, atlas)
cedarleaf eo
champaca abs
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
cistus eo and abs
clary sage eo and ab
copaiba balsam eo
costus root eo and co
clover sweet abs
cypress eo ad abs
feneel sweet eo
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
hay abs
ho leaf eo
ho wood eo
hyssop eo
juniperberry eo, co2 and abs
labdanum eo and abs
laurel leaf eo and abs
lovage leaf eo
lovage root eo, co2 and abs
marigold abs
marjoram eo and co2
mate abs
myrrh eo, co2 and abs
muhuhu eo
musk black attar
nagarmotha eo, co2 and abs
nigella damascena eo and abs
nigella sativa eo and abs
oakmoss abs
opoponax eo and abs
oregano eo, co2 and abs
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
peru balsam abs and eo
pimpinella eo
pine eo's and abs
poplar bud eo and abs
rosemary eo, co2 and abs
sage eo and co2
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
savory eo
seaweed abs
shamama attar
siamwood eo
spikenard eo and co2
spurce eo's and abs
styrax eo and abs
tansy eo
thyme eo, co2 and abs
tolu balsam abs
tonka abs
valarian eo and co2
vanilla co2 and abs
vetiver eo, co2 and abs
wintergreen eo
wormwood eo
ylang eo, co2 and abs


In natural perfumery used in colognes, new mown hay, fougere, herbal accords, fougere, chypres, forest notes.


Quotations on perfumery uses taken from Steffen Arctander's Perfume and Flavor Material of Natural Origin

Marigold absolute-"Its very peculiar note and intense color, however, limits the use of marigold absolute to fancy perfume types, modern aldehydic-herbaceous types where the green "crush-stalk" note may be called for and it gives interesting effects with oakmoss, mate extract, tea leaf extract, cypriol, iso cycle citral, etc Traces of the absolute can be useful in hyacinth, lilac, gardenia, reseda, moss-bases, etc"

Mate absolutes are" used in perfumery to introduce a pronounced greeness in floral bouquets. The green notes of mate are free of the sharpness which usually accompanies the "green" odor materials...In the reproduction of natural fragrance or substitutes for natural perfume materials, mate absolute can often add the missing notes to the match(duplication). In fougeres, new mown hay or meadowsweet fragrances, it lends a rich body and herbal undertone of unique tenacity...."

Oregano eo-"Trace amounts of origanum oil are useful for top note effects in citrus colognes, fougeres, forest note, chypres, lavender-colognes, spicy-herbacous after shave fragrances and lotions etc..."

Sweet, Spicy, Powerful and Warm Essences




Sweet, Spicy, Powerful and Warm Essences

In this group of essences we have cardamon eo, co2 and abs; lovage herb eo

Aromatic terms used to describe individual essences in this group:

Cardamon eo, co2 and abs(Elettaria cardamomum)-warm, spicy, aromatic, penetrating, camphoraceous-cineole like, medicinal, balsamic-wody, sweet, delicate floral undertone

Lovage herb/leaf eo(Levisticum officinale)-powerful diffusive, warm, sweet-aromatic, sweet floral, green herbaceous, celery-like

This group blends well with the following essences

agarwood eo and co2
amber eo
ambari attar
amyris eo
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
atractylis root eo and abs
bay leaf eo
beeswax abs
cabreuva eo
cananga eo
cascarilla eo
cassia eo and co2
caraway eo and co2
cardamon abs, co2 and eo
cedarwood eo's and absolutes
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
cinnamon leaf eo
cistus eo and abs
clary sage eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
copaiba balsam eo
coriander eo, co2 and abs
cubeb eo
cypress eo, co2 and abs
elder flower abs
fir needle eo's and abs
elemi eo and abs
estragon/tarragon eo and abs
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
galbanum eo, co2 and abs
ginger eo, co2 and abs
gurjun balsam eo
hay abs
hemlock spruce eo and abs
ho wood eo
how leaf eo
hyssop eo and co2
juniperberry eo, co2 and abs
labdanum eo and abs
lavindin eo and abs
lavender eo, co2 and abs
mace eo, co2 and abs
mastic eo and abs
mimosa abs
muhuhu eo
myrrh eo, co2 anda bs
nutmeg abs, eoc and co2
oakmoss abs
opoponax eo, co2 and abs
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
pepper black eo and co2
peru balsam eo and abs
pimento berry eo, co2 and abs
pine needle eo and abs
rose otto, co2 and abs
rosemary eo, co2 anda bs
sage eo and co2
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
spikenard eo and co2
tansy eo and abs
tea tree eo
tolu balsam eo and abs
tonka bean abs
turmeric eo and co2
vanilla abs and co2
vetiver eo, co2 and abs
ylang eo and abs
zeodary bark eo


In natural perfumery these essences can be used in incense perfumes spice accords, Oriental bases, chypre, amber bases, culinary creations, musk accords. In high class floral perfumery blends nicely with jasmin, orange blossom, rose and ylang

Cardamom oil-"in perfumery, the oils will not only impart spiciness, but also a warm, sweet note which fits into floral bases such as muguet and rose....The oil imparts warm in Oriental perfume bases, chypres and face powder perfumes."

Fresh, Spicy, Woody Essences




Fresh, Spicy, Woody Essences

In this category are included cascallia eo; laurel leaf eo and abs; mace eo and co2; marjoram, sweet eo and co2; myrtle eo; nutmeg eo, co2 and abs

Aromatic terms associated with the individual essences in Fresh, Spicy, Woody essence group-

Cascarilla eo(Croton eluteria)-strong, spicy, aromatic, warm-woody, peppery, unusual diffusiveness and power
Laurel leaf eo and abs(Laurus nobilis)-fresh, strong, sweet, aromatic-camphoraceous, spicy medicinal
Mace eo and co2(Myristica fragrans) fresh, spicy, warm, rich, balasmic
Marjoram, sweet(Origanum majorana)-warm, spicy, aromatic, camphoracous, woody
Nutmeg eo and co2-fresh, warm-spicy, aromatic, terpeny topnote(essential oil)

This group blends well with the following essences

agarwood eo and co2
amber eo
ambari attar
amyris eo
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
atractylis root eo and abs
bay leaf eo
beeswax abs
cabreuva eo
cananga eo
cascarilla eo
cassia eo and co2
caraway eo and co2
cardamon abs, co2 and eo
cedarwood eo's and absolutes
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
cinnamon leaf eo
cistus eo and abs
clary sage eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
copaiba balsam eo
coriander eo, co2 and abs
cubeb eo
cypress eo, co2 and abs
elder flower abs
fir needle eo's and abs
elemi eo and abs
estragon/tarragon eo and abs
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
galbanum eo, co2 and abs
ginger eo, co2 and abs
gurjun balsam eo
hay abs
hemlock spruce eo and abs
ho wood eo
how leaf eo
hyssop eo and co2
juniperberry eo, co2 and abs
labdanum eo and abs
lavindin eo and abs
lavender eo, co2 and abs
mace eo, co2 and abs
mastic eo and abs
mimosa abs
muhuhu eo
myrrh eo, co2 anda bs
nutmeg abs, eoc and co2
oakmoss abs
opoponax eo, co2 and abs
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
pepper black eo and co2
peru balsam eo and abs
pimento berry eo, co2 and abs
pine needle eo and abs
rose otto, co2 and abs
rosemary eo, co2 anda bs
sage eo and co2
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
spikenard eo and co2
tansy eo and abs
tea tree eo
tolu balsam eo and abs
tonka bean abs
turmeric eo and co2
vanilla abs and co2
vetiver eo, co2 and abs
ylang eo and abs
zeodary bark eo


In natural perfumery this group of essences is used in spice note, incense bouquets, Oriental perfumes, precious woods accord, culinary creations, culinary creations


Notes on perfumery uses from Steffen Artanders Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origi

Cascarilla oil-"The very complex note of spiceneness and the warm, woody undertone has intrigued many perfumers to use cascarilla oil in high class perfumes. It was even claimed that l'origan contained this as one of its'key' ingredients(if one can uses such an expression at all about a creation)But the oil does present interesting notes in chypre bases, tabac-types, Oriental perfumes, men's fragrances, fantasy colognes, etc"
Laurele eo-"In perfumes, the fresh and warm camphoraceous noes blend well with citrus oils, spice oils, bay leaf oil, pine needle oils, juniperberry oils, cypress, sage clary, rosemary, etc. It produces interesting notes with olibanum, labdanum and lavender. The oil also finds use in aldehydice types of air freshners, and as a modifier or 'twist" note in men's colognes , after shaves,etc
Mace eo-"In perfumery, mace extract finds some use along with other spicy and warm-aromatic materials for men's colognes, after-shaves, fougeres, chypres, in modern fantasy lotion perfumes etc."
Marjoram, sweet-"in perfumery introuces a fresh, slightly medicinal-aromatic, warm note to fougeres, colognes, Oriental bases.."
Nutmeg eo-"The oil has found increasing use in perfumery lately for the modern "spicy" perfumes and for "men's frangrances in after shaves and other lotions. Small additions in fantasy bouquets or aldehydic perfumes, florals, chypres, etc and have interesting effects
Nutmeg abs- used "in old fashioned types of Oriental perfume where in produces delightful effects in combination with sandalwood, vetiver, cypriol, sage clary, oakmoss, lavender absolute, tonka absolute, labdanum extracts, bergamot oil, pachouli oil, geranium oil etc. Minute additions of nutmeg extract can have very interesting effects in rose bases etc."

Caraway-type Essences



Caraway-type Essences

Essences in this group include Caraway seed eo and co2; dill eo and co2; spearmint eo and abs

Aromatic terms associated with individual essences in this group are:

Caraway seed eo and co2(Carum carvi)-, sweet, sharp, pungent, warm,aromatic, "rye" bread-like

Dill Seed eo and co2(Anethum graveolens)- powerful, fresh, peppery, aromatic, warm-spicy

Spearmint eo, co2 and abs(Mentha spicata)-warm, sharp, green-herbaceous, penetrating, powerful

This group of oils blends well with-
amyris eo
anise seed eo
basil eo, co2 and abs
benzoin abs
bergamot eo
birch sweet eo
blood orange eo
bois de rose eo
carrot seed eo
cassia bark eo and co2
cedrela wood eo
clary sage eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2, and abs
cumin seed eo, co2 and abs
cubeb eo
currant black abs
dill seed eo and co2
fir balsam abs
geranium eo and abs
gurjun balsam eo
ho leaf eo
ho wood eo
hops eo and co2
hyacinth abs
juniper berry eo, co2 and abs
lavender eo, co2 and abs
mimosa abs
orange bitter eo
orange sweet eo
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
petitgrain eo's
rose abs
rosemary eo, co2 and abs
thyme eo and abs
tonka bean abs
tuberose abs
verbena eo and abs
violet leaf abs
ylang eo and abs

In natural perfumery the caraway type essences can be used to good effect in trace amounts in spice bases, amber perfumes, colognes, fougeres, chypre, precious wood notes, herbal bouquets, Oriental accords, culinary creations


Spearmint oil-"In perfumery the oil finds some use for its peculiar herbaceous-green effect in lavender-fougere or even in Jasmin compositions. The chief constituent of spearmint oil, Carvone, blends well with certain notes of the jasmin complex. The oil has a good and powerful effect in soap perfumes and is surprisingly stable stable in soap.."

Sweet, Aromatic, Licorice-like Essences



Sweet, Aromatic, Licorice-like Essences

Included in this category of essences are anise seed eo and co2; fennel, sweet eo and co2; star anise eo and co2

Aromatic terms used to describe the essences in this group

anise seed eo and co2(Pimpinella anisum)- intense, sweet, soft, mild, clean, 'licorice like"
anise star eo and co2(Illicium verum)-intense, sweet, warm, licorice-like, spicy, aromatic
fennel, sweet(Foeniculum vulgare)-sweet, clean, aromatic, spicy, licorice like


Blends well with:
agarwood eo and co2
amber eo
amyris eo
angelica seed eo and co2
angelic root eo, co2 and abs
atryactylis root oil
basil eo and co2
benzoin abs
bergamot eo
birch sweet eo
bois de rose eo
caraway seed eo and co
caroot seed eo, co2 and abs
cassia eo and co2
cascarilla eo
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
copaiba balsam
coriander eo and co2
cubeb eo
davana eo, co2 and abs
dill eo and co2
elder flower co2 and abs
elemi eo and abs
estragon/tarragon eo and abs
fir needle eo and abs
geranium eo and abs
ginger eo, co2 and abs
guaiacwood eo
hop eo and co2
juniperberry eo, co2 and abs
lavindin eo and abs
oregano eo and co2
pepper black eo, co2 and abs
pepper pink eo and co2
seaweed abs
spearmint eo and abs
tagete eo and abs
thyme eo, co2 and abs
tolu balsam eo and abs
vanilla co2 and abs
wintergreen eo


In natural perfumery used in apothecary perfumes, incense bouquets, forest notes, culinary notes, chypre, fougere, spice notes, cologne, high class florla. Very minute amounts must be used with extreme care in perfume compositions as the intense, sweet notes can easily dominate a composition. When well dosed can give a wonderful delicate lift to many types of compositions. Acacia, freesia, carnation, clover, freesia, hawthorn, honeysuckle, linden blossom, rose, sweet pea, tuberose and wallflower bouquets can all benefit from trace amounts of this group of essences

Mild, Sweet, Woody Essences




Mild, Sweet, Woody Essences

Aromatic terms describing individual essences in this group

Amyris(Amyris balsamifera)-mild, woody, oily-sweet, balsamic, occasionally displays a light peppery note. Many subtle differences exist in this oil depending on age of heartwood at time of distillation, age of heartwood etc
Araucaria(Neocallitropis pancheri)-delicate, woody, rich , sweet, floral undertone
Copaiba balsam(Copaifera species)-mild, sweet, creamy, balsamic, faint peppery undertone
Guaiacwood eo(Bulnesia sarmienti)This oil is a solid waxy mass at room temperature. Delicate, sweet, rosy, woody, balsamic, creamy, slightly smoky
Gurjun balsam(Dipterocarpus species)-mild , woody, sweet, balsamic, great tenacity

This group of essences blends well with:
agarwood eo and co2
amber eo
ambrette seed co2 , eo and abs
amyris wood eo
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
armoise eo
atractylis eo and abs
bay leaf eo and abs
beeswax abs
benzoin abs
blood orange eo
bois de rose eo
cabreuva eo
cananga eo
carrot seed eo, co2 and ab
cassia eo and co2
cedarwood oils(atlas, himalayan, virginia, etc)
cedarleaf eo
cedrela eo
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
cistus eo and abs
clary sage eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
copaiba eo
elemi eo and abs
fir balsam eo and abs
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
galbanum eo, co2 and abs
ginger eo, co2 and abs
helichrysum eo and abs
juniperberry eo, co2 and abs
labdanum eo and abs
gurjun balsam eo
guaiacwood eo
ho wood eo
ho leaf eo
mace eo, co2
myrrh eo, co2 and abs
nutmeg eo, co2 and abs
oakmoss abs
orange peel eo
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
palmarosa eo
pepper black eo and co2
peru balsam eo
pimento berry eo, co2 and abs
pine needle eo and abs
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
tansy eo
tolu balsam eo and abs
tonka bean abs
valerian eo, co2 and abs
vetiver eo, co2 and abs

Amyris finds extensive application as a mild blender in numerous types of perfume, particularly in soap perfumes
Araucaria oil is an excellent fixative..
Copaiaba balsam-its main use is is a blender-modifier
Guaiawood eo- a good low cost fixative, an excellent blender in woody-floral perfumes, in soap compounds as well as high-class perfumes..
Gurjun balsam- good fixative, modifier and odor depressant material in woody or Oriental fragrances in soap compounds where its great tenacity and mild uniform odor is an advantage.

In natural perfumery uses in forest notes, woody bases, violet perfumes, spice fragrances, rose bases, incense notes, Oriental fragrances, sacred perfumes, fougere
These essences can be used as blender-modifiers in acacia, carnation, champa, hawthorn,
jonquil, rose bouquets

Wine-Sweet-Floral Essences




The Wine-Sweet-Floral Group of Essences includes Ambrette Seed eo, co2 and abs and Nigella damascena eo and abs

Aromatic terms associated with:

Ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs
-rich, sweet, floral-musky, wine-like, brandy-like, tobacco-like, overripe fruit, tenacioius, possess a roundness of bouquet seldom found in any other materia
Nigella damascena eo and abs-sweet, fruity, winy, brandy-like, fruity note compared to that of strawberies

This small group blends well with:

agarwood eo and co2
amber eo
amberi attar
amyris eo
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
angelica seed eo
bakul attar
beeswax abs
bergamot eo
bois de rose eo
boronia abs
broom abs
cabreuva eo
calamus eo and co2
carrot seed eo, co2 and abs
cassie abs
citron eo
cistus eo abd abs
clover sweet abs
coconut abs
coriander eo, co2 and abs
costus eo and co2
cubeb eo
cypress eo and abs
elderflower abs and co2
elecampane root eo and abs
fir balsam abs
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
galbanum eo, co2 and abs
guaiacwood eo
gurjun balsam eo
hay abs
helichyrsum eo and abs
ho wood eo
ho leaf eo
jasmin sambac abs and ruh
jasmin grandiflorum abs and ruh
jasmin auriculatum abs and ruh
jasmin flexile abs
kewda ruh and attar
labdanum eo and abs
lavender eo, co2 and abs
lemon eo and essence
lime eo and essence
mastic eo and abs
mimosa abs
myrrh eo, co2 and abs
musk attar
oakmoss abs
nagarmotha eo, co2 and abs
opoponax eo and abs
orange blossom abs
orris root eo, co2 and abs
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
peru balsam eo and abs
poplar bud abs
pine needle eo and abs
osmanthus abs
rosa damascena eo eo and abs
rosa centifolia abs
sage clary eo and abs
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
seaweed abs
siamwood eo
spruce eo and abs
tonka bean abs
vetiver eo, co2 and abs
styrax eo and abs
vanilla co2 and abs

In natural perfumery used in amber bases, incense perfumes, musk accord, forest notes, high class floral, fougere, chypre, Oriental bases, precious woods notes


Nigella damascena eo and abs can be "used in perfumery, not only in lipstick perfumes where it produces interesting modifications of the conventional strawberry-peach-pineabbple type of fruity perfumes but also in many floral bases, e.g. gardenia, honeysuckle, jasmin, liclac, neroli, etc...It is a comparatively powerful and penetrating material which can be used effectively at concentrations belows on per cent.."-Steffen Arctander

Incense-Resinous-Ambery essences




Incense-Resinous-Ambery essences
In this group of essences we find frankincense/olibanum eo, co2 and abs; cistus eo and abs; labdanum eo and abs; popular bud eo and abs

Aromatic terminology for individual essences in the Incense-Resinous-Ambery essences group


Frankincense/Olibanum eo, co2 and abs-fresh, balasmic, lemony-green, dry, resinous, fruity-green, tenacious(the absolute and co2), diffusive, fresh-terpeny, sweet-woody,
Labdanum eo and abs-deep, sweet-balsamic, herbaceous, amber-like, rich, suave
Cistus eo and abs-powerful, tenacious, warm, sweet, dry, ambre-like, animalic, spicy, herbaceous
Popular bud eo and abs-cinnamic, coumarininc, sweet, balasmic

General aromatic terms used to describe this group of essences may include words like powerful, rich, deep, tenacious, warm, sweet, dry,resinous, incense-like, animalic, warm-herbaceous, herbaceous-balsamic, fresh-balsamic, wine-like, fruity-green, green-lemon-like, ambra-like, fresh-terpeny, coumarinic-cinnamic

Blends well witth
agarwood eo and co2
amber eo
amberi attar
ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs
amyris eo
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
araucaria eo
atractylis eo and abs
bay leaf eo and abs
benzoin abs
bergamot eo
birch sweet eo
birch tar eo
bois de rose/rosewood eo
cabreuva eo
calamus eo and co2
camphor eo
cardamon seed eo, co2 and abs
carrot seed eo, co2 and abs
cascarilla bark eo
cassia eo, co2 and abs
cassie abs
cedarleaf eo
cedarwood atlas eo
cedarwood viriginia eo
cedarwood himalaya eo and abs
cedarwood western red cedar eo
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
cinnamon leaf eo
cistus eo and abs
clary sage eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
copaiba balsam eo
coriander seed eo and abs
costus eo and co2
cubeb eo
currantbud absolute black
elemi eo and abs
eucalyptus eo's
fir eo's and abs
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
galangal eo
galbanum eo, co2 and abs
ginger eo, co2 and abs
guaicawood eo
gurjun balsam eo
hay abs
helichrysum eo and abs
howood eo
holeaf eo
jasmin sambac abs and ruh
jasmin grandiflorum and ruh
jasmin auriculatum abs
juniperberry eo, co2 and abs
kewda ruh and attar
lavender eo, co2 anda bs
labdanum eo and abs
lemon eo and essence
lemon balm eo, co2 and abs
litsea cubeba eo
mace eo and co2
marjoram sweet eo and co2
mimosa abs
musk attar
myrrh eo, co2 and abs
nutmeg eo, co2 and abs
oakmoss abs
opoponax eo and abs
orange blossom abs
orange bitter eo
orange sweet eo
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
peru balsam and abs
pimento berry eo, co2 and abs
pine needle eo and abs
rose otto and abs
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
shamama attar
spikenard eo and co2
spruce eo and abs
styrax eo and abs
tolu balsam eo and abs
tonka abs
turmeric eo, co2 and abs
valerian eo and co2
vanilla abs and co2
verbena eo and abs
vetiver eo, co2 and abs
ylang eo and abs
yuzu eo

In natural perfumes may be used in
lavender bouquets, amber bases, oriental perfumes, colognes, incense bouquets, sacred perfumes, high class floral perfumes, temple bouquets

Special notes from Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin by Steffen Arctander

cistus "used in modern aldehydic or ambre types of perfumes, in Oriental bases and in numerous fantasy bouquets where it will lend tenacity, warm tonalities and an intriguingly spicy-animal note...Its great solublity makes it interesting for colognes where it blends extremely well with citrus oils, sage clary and oakmoss products."

labdanum absolute from concrete " is used extensively in perfumery, partly as an excellent fixative, partly to introduce a rich , suave sweetness, a natural undertone, which blends well with citrus colognes, lavender colognes, all kinds of oriental bases, chpres, ambre bases, pine and forest blends..."

frankincense/olbinaum absolute is "used as a fixative with its distinct lemony-green, dry, fresh-balsamic note as a special effect. In combination with spice oils, particulary high grade cinnamon bark oil, olibanum absolute creates quite surprising complexes. A typically "powdery"-effect in fragrance is obtained with combinations of olibanum, cinnamon bark, cinnamic alcohol, nitromusks, and coumarin or courmarin derivatives...A truly "Oriental" note can be created basically with sandalwood oil, vetiver oil, olibanum absolute and cinnamon bark oil for further perfumery work."

frankincense/olibanum oil is "used in fine perfumery for the notes described above in the monograph on olibanum absolute. It gives delightful effect in citrus colognes where it modifies the sweetness of bergamot and orange oils. A similar effect is obtained in the rather difficult "fresh" perfume notes such as verbena, citrus, etc where olibanum and citral form useful bases for further modifying work...

Phenolic Leather Essences




Essences in the Phenolic Leather category include crude amber oil, birch tar(rectified), cade eo, choya loban, choya nakh and choya loban

Aromatic terms used in connection with individual essences of this category

birch tar-phenolic, tar-like, charred wood, smoke, penetrating, diffusive, sweet-oily undertone,
cade- tar-like, phenolic odor, dry, warm, lathery
amber oil, crude-smoky, tar-like, resinous, leathery

Terms to describe the aromatic properties of these oils are burnt-woody, camphoric, styrenic, smoky, tar-like, smoky-leathery, smoky-phenolic, penetrating, diffusive, charred. In great dilution these oils display some unique qualities which may be sweet, resionous, oceanic, ambery etc depending on the oils

Blends well with
ajowan eo
agarwood eo and co2
aglaia odorata seed abs
amberi attar
ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs
amyris eo
anise eo
anise star eo and co2
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
angelica seed eo and co2
araucaria eo
arnica abs
artemisia eo's
balsam gurjum eo
benzoin abs
bergamot eo
betel eo
birch, sweet eo
black currant abs
bois de rose/rosewood eo
cabreuva eo
calamus eo and co2
camphor eo
cananga eo
carrot seed eo, co2 and abs
cascarilla eo
cassia bark eo, co2 and abs
cedarwood eo's(viriginia, himalayan, atlas)
cedarleaf eo
champaca abs
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
cistus eo and abs
clary sage eo and ab
copaiba balsam eo
costus root eo and co
clover sweet abs
cypress eo ad abs
feneel sweet eo
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
hay abs
ho leaf eo
ho wood eo
hyssop eo
juniperberry eo, co2 and abs
labdanum eo and abs
laurel leaf eo and abs
lovage leaf eo
lovage root eo, co2 and abs
marigold abs
marjoram eo and co2
mate abs
myrrh eo, co2 and abs
muhuhu eo
musk black attar
nagarmotha eo, co2 and abs
nigella damascena eo and abs
nigella sativa eo and abs
oakmoss abs
opoponax eo and abs
oregano eo, co2 and abs
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
peru balsam abs and eo
pimpinella eo
pine eo's and abs
poplar bud eo and abs
rosemary eo, co2 and abs
sage eo and co2
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
savory eo
seaweed abs
shamama attar
siamwood eo
spikenard eo and co2
spurce eo's and abs
styrax eo and abs
tansy eo
thyme eo, co2 and abs
tolu balsam abs
tonka abs
valarian eo and co2
vanilla co2 and abs
vetiver eo, co2 and abs
wintergreen eo
wormwood eo
ylang eo, co2 and abs

In natural perfumery used in russian leather bases, colognes, musk bases, amber notes, fougeres, forest notes, ambergris bases, oriental bouquets, incense notes, oceanic creations
Trace amounts of the above essences can work wonders in many types of perfume

Specific notes on perfumery uses of individual essences in this category from Steffen Artanders Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin

Cade-"Its use in perfumery is limited to situations where a smoky-leathery, woody-phenolic, dry and warm note is called for: forest notes, leather-bases, fougeres, pine for "mens frangrances", etc"

Birch Tar- To the perfumer, the "heart" fraction of birch tar oil is the true and highly appreciated sweet and powerful "leather" odor for fougeres, chypres, "men's fragrances", after shave lotions, modern fantasy bases.

Amber oils crude-"men's colognes, after shaves

Thyme Group of Essences

Essences in the Thyme group include Ajowan eo; Thyme eo; Savory eo

Aromatic terms used to describe these essences are fresh, powerful, punguent intense, sharp, warm, medicinal, terpeny, phenolic, aromatic, herbaceous, green, spicy, green-cuminic.

Blends well with;
ajowan eo
arnica abs, co2 and eo
betel eo
black currant abs
boldo leaf eo
cajuput eo
calmintha eo
camphor eo
cardamon eo, co2 anda abs
chenopodium eo
citrus eo's
cubeb eo
eucalytus eo
fennel eo and co2
fir needle eo
lavindin eo and abs
laurel leaf eo and abs
lavender eo, co2 and abs
lovage leaf eo
mace eo and co2
marjoram eo and co2
mate abs
myrtle eo
niaouli eo
nutmeg eo, co2 and abs
oakmoss abs
oregano eo and co2
pepper pink eo and co2
pine needle eo and abs
ravintsara eo
ravensara eo
rosemary eo, co2 and abs
sage eo and abs
savin eo
savory eo
seaweed eo
thyme eo, co2 and abs
turpentine eo

In natural perfumery trace amounts of the thyme group of essences can be used very effectively in fougere, chypres, cologne, after shave lotions etc.

Precious woods, root - earth essences

Essenses in the precious wood, root and earth category include vetiver eo, co2 and abs; calamus eo and co2: costus eo, co2 and abs; cyperus/nagarmotha eo, co2 and abs; elecampane eo and abs

This is a highly complex group of oils with many key aromatic terms that can be connected with them. Some of these include rich, soft, sweet, dry, precious-woody,heavy fungal, animalic, balsamic, spicy, creamy-nutty, sweet leather, violet-like, root-like, fatty, musty, earthy

Blends well with:
allspice eo, co2 and abs
anise sweet eo
anise star eo and co2
amyris eo
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
angelica seed eo and co2
artemisia annua eo
benzoin abs
bergamot eo
birch bud co2
birch sweet eo
birch tar eo
boronia abs
cade eo
cananga eo
cardamon eo, co2 and abs
cascarilla eo
cedarwood eo's and abs
choya nakh
choya ral
choya loban
cistus eo and abs
clary sage eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
copaiba balsam eo
coriander seed eo and co2
cypress eo and abs
davana eo, co2 and abs
elemi eo and abs
fir eo's and abs
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
galbanum eo, co2 and abs
guaiacwood eo
galangal root eo
geranium eo and abs
ginger root eo, co2 and abs
guaiacwood eo
gurjun balsam eo
hay abs
hemlock spruce eo and abs
juniper berry eo, co2 and abs
labdanum eo and abs
licorice abs
lime eo and essence
lovage root eo and co2
mace eo and co2
mandarin eo
mastic eo and abs
muhuhu eo
myrrh eo, co2 and abs
nagarmotha eo, co2 and abs
nutmeg eo, co2 and abs
oakmoss abs
opoponax eo and abs
orris root eo, co2 and abs
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
pepper black eo, co2 and abs
petitgrain eo's(combava, mandarin, bigarade etc)
peru balsam eo and abs
pine needle eo and abs
rosa damascena eo, co2 and abs
rose centifolia eo and abs
rosa alba eo and co2
rosa bourbonia abs
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
seaweedd abs
siam wood eo
spikenard eo and co2
spruce eo and abs
tolu balsam eo and abs
tonka bean abs
turmeric eo, co2 and abs
valarian eo and co2
vanilla bean co2 and abs
vetiver eo, co2 and abs
ylang abs and eo

In perfumery these essences are used in chypre, amber bases, fougere, precious woods bases, oriental perfumes, sacred perfumes, incense notes, forest accords, musk accords, leather bases, marine perfumes

Sweet Balsamic Resin Essences

Sweet Balsamic Resin essences contains a number of absolutes and essential oils including Peru Balsam eo and abs, Tolu Balsam eo and abs, Benzoin Abs and Styrax eo and abs

Key aromatic terms for individual essences-

Benzoin absolute-delicate, rich, sweet-balsamic, vanilla-like, creamy
Peru balsam eo-suave, balsamic, rich, deep-sweet, spicy, vanilla-sweet, slightly smoky undertone
Tolu Balsam eo- rich, balsamic, cresolic, sweet, floral, tenacious
Styrax eo-rich, sweet-balasmic, floral, spicy

Some of the key words associated with this category of essences are creamy, rich, deep-sweet, balsamic, vanillic, with cinnamic, spicy, sharp-floral, fruity notes giving distinctive character to individual oils. The essences in this category may contain all are some of the above notes and the proportions in which they appear give each one their unique aroma.

Blend well with:
agarwood eo, co2
allspice eo, co2, abs
amber eo
amberi attar
ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs
amyris eo
angelica root eo, co2 and abs
bay leaf eo and abs
beeswax abs
bois de rose/rosewood eo
cananga eo
cinnamon bark eo, co2 and abs
cistus eo and abs
clove bud eo, co2 and abs
clover sweet abs
copaiba eo
elemi eo and abs
frangipani abs
frankincense eo, co2 and abs
galangal root eo
galbanum eo, co2 and abs
guaiacwood eo
gurjun balsam eo
helichrysum eo and abs
hyacinth abs
jasmin grandiflorum abs
Jasmin flexile abs
Jasmin auriculatum abs
jasmin sambac absolute
jonquil abs
juniper berry eo, co2 and abs
kewda ruh and attar
labdanum eo and abs
mace eo, co2 and abs
musk attar
muhuhu eo
myrrh eo, co2 and abs
nutmeg eo, co2 and abs
orris root eo, co2 and abs
osmanthus abs
labdanum eo and abs
opoponax eo and abs
patchouli eo, co2 and abs
pepper eo, co2 and abs
petitgrain(mandarin, combava, bigarade, lemon)
sandalwood eo, co2 and abs
spikenard eo, co2 and abs
tonka bean abs
tuberose abs
valerian eo, co2 and abs
vanilla abs
vetiver eo, co2 and abs
ylang eo, co2 and abs

amber bases, incense perfumes, new mown hay essences, honey notes, oriental bases

Special Perfumery Notes on individual essences in the Sweet Balsamic Resin essences category taken from Steffen Aractander's classic Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural origin-

Peru balsam essential oil-"The tenacity in odor of this oil is outstanding making it one of the best fixatives among all essential oils. Its suave odor makes Peru balsam oil a very versatile perfume material which can be incorporated in almost any type of perfume base of perfume at concentrations of from less than one percent up to more than five percent. For delicate floral fragrances such as muguet, lilac, appleblossom, etc. this oils blends excellently with floral as well as with balsamic or spicy notes. With arauacaria oil of sandalwood oil it blends to a delightfully seet "precious wood" type like cabreuva oil. In gardenia, longoza, tuberose and carnation bases or duplications it forms an important part of the long-lasting, sweet udnertone with undecanolide, nonanolide, ylang-ylang and other heavy and sweet-floral notes. It imparts depth and natural spicy sweetness to a rose, and warm, balsamic body in ambre an or Oriental bases, "powder" type fragrances etc."

Tolu Balsam essential oil- This material gives excellent effects in hyacinth, tuberose, gardenia, honeysuckle, stephanotis, and numberous other sweet-floral fragrances..and itis in general an interesting item used in all types of of "fantasy" perfume, "tabac", "leather", aldehydic perfume etc. It produces interesting "powdery" effects with patchouli, ionones, musks, cedarwood ketones, etc

Tolu Balsam Resinoid or Tolu Balsam Absolute are "used primarily as fixatives in citrus-colgnes, Oriental perfumes, chypres and floral bases, etc. Along with Peru balsam products they are among the most interesting modifiers for "exotic" floral fragrances."

Styrax essential oil is "used in numerous types of floral perfumes, e.g. lilac, hyacinth, apple blossom, carnation, etc. In spite of its deep sweetness, its dry-floral note makes it suitable for cassie, mimosa, violet, carnation, hawthorn(spicy notes), lavender and fougere(sweetness and tenacity) rose, etc"

Benzoin Tincture is used as a fixative in fine perfumery, in colognes, in alcohol for prefixation prior to the preparatin of colognes, lotions, etc

Fresh balsamic conifer essences



Fresh balsamic conifer essences
In this group essences we find the fir, pine, and spruce oils and absolutes. Examples of the plants from which the essences are distilled are extracted are Silver Fir, Grand Fir, Douglas Fir, Balsam Fir, Forest/Scotch Pine, Maritime Pine, Ocean Pine, Mountain Pine, Dwark Pine, Blue Spruce, Black Spruce etc
These oils share a number of aromatic characteristics which may be described with such terms as fresh, resinouus, pinaceous, green, coniferous, pineaceous, terpenic, nutty, balsamic, clean, sweet with hints of fruity, spicy, citrusy notes
Each of the oils and absolutes distilled or extracted from this category of plants has its own unique balance of the above mentioned aromatic characteristics

Aromatic terminology relating to individual essences in this group

Silver Fir eo(Abies alba) rich, balsamic-sweet, oily-pinaceous
Balsam fir needle essential oil(Abies balsamea)-oily-balsamic, resinous, fresh and sweet
Douglas fir(Pseudotsuga sp.)-soft, sweet, rich body note, green, resinous, good odor tenacity for a conifer oils
Fir Needle Siberian(Abies siberica)-refreshing, balsamic, fatty, oil, resinous, coniferous, fruity-balsamic undertone
Norway/Red Spruce(Picea excelsa) eo-light, fresh, balsamic-pine needle like odor, slightly cedar-like undertone
Pine, Black(Pinus nigra) eo- pleasant, balsamic-pine-like, refreshing, terpenic
Pine, mountain(Pinus pumilo/Pinus montana) eo-pleasant, pine-like, balsamic-sweet, woody, slightly spicy, oil-fatty, undertone of great tenaiciy
Pine, Forest/Scothc(Pinus sylvestris) eo
Spruce, Black(Picea mariana)eo-pleasant, balsamic-fresh, sweet-oily and fruity undertone

Blends well with:

abies alba cone/templin oil
abies alba needle oil
abies amabilis oil canada
abies grandis oil canada
abies lasiocarpa oil canada
abies pectinata needle oil
agarwood oil
agarwood co2
amber oil
amyris wood oil
balsam fir needle oil america
bergamot mint herb oil
bergamot oil
birch bud oil
birch oil
birch oil sweet
birch tar oil
blood orange oil
bois de rose leaf oil
bois de rose oil
bursera graveolens fruit oil
bursera graveolens wood oil
cabreuva wood oil
cade oil
callitris columellaris wood oil australia
callitris glaucophylla wood oil australia
callitris intratropica wood oil australia
cananga oil
cedarleaf oil western red
cedar heartwood oil western red
cedarwood oil atlanta
cedarwood absolute
cedarwood oil atlas morocco
cedarwood oil himalaya
cedarwood oil port orford
cedarwood oil texas
cedarwood oil virginia
chamaecyparis nootkatensis oil
cistus oil
cistus absolute
clary sage oil
clary sage absolutge
clover sweet abs
copaiba balsam oil
coriander seed oil
coriander seed oil CO2 extract
cypress oil
cypress absolute
davana oil
davana co2
davana absolute
douglas fir oil canada
fir needle oil canada
fir needle oil siberia
fir needle absolute
flouve absolute
frankincense eo
frankincense co2
frankincense abs
galbanum eo
galbanum co2
galbanum absolute
grapefruit oil
guaiacwood oil
gurjun balsam oil
hay absolute
helichrysum oil
helichrysum absolute
hemlock western oil
hemlock spruce blue absolute
Hemlock spruce black absolute
hiba leaf oil
hibawood oil
hinoki leaf oil
hinoki root oil
hinoki wood oil
ho leaf oil
ho root oil
ho wood oil
huon pine wood oil
juniper berry oil
juniper berry absolute
juniper berry oil CO2 extract
juniper branch oil
juniper needle oil
juniper wood oil
labdanum oil
lavindin oil
lavindin absolute
lavender oil
lavender abs
lavender co2
lavender spike eo
lemon eo
lemon essence
lime eo
lime essence
linaloe berry/fruit oil
linaloe wood oil mexico
labdanum absolute
mandarin eo
mastic eo
mastic abs
mandarin oil
muhuhu wood oil
myrrh eo
myrrh co2
myrrh abs
oakmoss abs
opoponax eo
opoponax abs
orange bitter eo
orange sweet eo
orange sweet essence
orris root eo
orris root co2
orris root abs
pine needle oil
pine needle abs
pinus cembra l. leaf twig oil
pinus laricio poiret branch oil italy
pinus laricio poiret cone oil italy
pinus laricio poiret leaf oil italy
pinus lauricio leaf oil
pinus mugo pumilio leaf twig oil
pinus palustris needle oil
pinus palustris twig leaf oil
pinus pinaster twig leaf oil
pinus pumila branch leaf oil
pinus pumila twig leaf oil
rosemary flower oil
rosemary whole herb oil
rosemary co2
rosemary abs
sandalwood eo
sandalwood co2
sandalwood abs
siam wood eo
spikenard eo
spikenard co2
spruce eo
spruce abs
tangerine eo
tangerine essence
tonka bean absolute
ylang oil
zdravetz abs
zdravetz oil
ylang co2
ylang complete
yuzu


Perfumery uses
amber bases, forest notes, colognes, holiday creations, incense perfumes, sacred blends,fougere


Quotes on perfumery uses are taken from S. Arctander-Perfume and Flavors of Natural Origin
"Abies alba oil find application in perfumes for bath preparations, air-freshners, disinfectants, fougere-colognes, soap perfumes, detergents, etc...Although the oil belongs to the group of 'low-ester' and 'high-terpene' containing 'fir' and spruce needle oils, it has great power, good stability and performance in compositions for the above purposes"

"Oil of Abies balsamea serve as a 'pine-and-spruce' fragrance in fresh-balsamic 'fir needle'blends, Christmas tree odors, fougeres, air refreshners, disinfectants, household cleaners, etc"

Fir Needle, Siberian- "The particular odor and aldehydic topnote of this oil makes it an interesting material for 'unconventional' perfumery"

Red Spruce is "used along with other pine, spruce or so-called 'fir" needle oils in air-freshners, room deodorants, batch oils, soap perfumes, fougere bases, etc and as a modifier in colognes, chypres, etc"

Mountain Pine is use for " room spray perfumes, batch preparations, Christmas fragrances, 'leather type baes, etc"

Black Spruce "is used extensively in the USA for room spray perfumes, bath preparions, air refreshners, disintectants, in liquid detergents, cleansers, and other household products, etc. and it finds natural application in 'pine' fragrances, not only becouse of the previous shortage of 'true' Siberian pine needle oil, but also because of the excellent individual performance of spruce oil in 'fresh' perfume types."

Scent of Autumn in Literature

Scent of Autumn in Literature

The air was the air of summer, yet there was that indescribabl something it it that reminded one of the first touch of autumn. Softly in the dark, quiet night the dew laid a refreshing hand upon the leaves and flowers as if to preserve them yet a while longer; but nevertheless there was the autumn scent which told one only too plainly that the drooping harebells and half blown fox gloves would in the morning be covered by a listening network of 'dew-strung gossamer.'
A Night's Fishing in Wales-A.T. Johnson

Bob seemed to catch the ore's nevousness: peering aobut her, she saw that the haze was increasing; and the odor--was it not like the all-pervading autumn scent of burning leaves--a scent not unpleasing, yet somewhat sinister, too?
Two alike: with illustrations
By Edith Barnard Delano

Is there any essence of Dick-
sonia fern, I wonder? Surely that giant who
my neighbor expects is to bound up the Alle-
ghanies will have his handkerchief scented with
that. The sweet fragrance of decay! When I
wade through by narrow cow-paths, it is as if I
had strayed into an ancient and decayed herb
garden. Nature perfumes her garments with
this essence now especially. She gives it to
those who go a-barberrying and on dank autumnal walks.
The very scent of it, if you
have a decayed frond in your chamber, will take
you far up country in a twinkling.
Autumn-Thoreau

Those two charming creatures trudged through the
fine sand of the road, carried away by a childish
delight in making their light footfalls resound in
unison, happy to be enveloped in the same ray of
light, which seemed to belong rather to the sun of
the springtime, and to inhale together the perfumes
of autumn, laden with such rich spoil of vegetation
that they seemed like nourishment brought by the
air to feed the melancholy of newborn love.
The Chouans by Honore de Balzac


For the first moments Start-
sev was struck now by what he saw for the first time
in his life, and what he would probably never see
again; a world not like anything else, a world in
which the moonlight was as soft and beautiful, as
though slumbering here in its cradle, where there
was no life, none whatever; but in every dark poplar,
in every tomb, there was felt the presence of a mys-
tery that promised a life peaceful, beautiful, eternal.
The stones and faded flowers, together with the
autumn scent of the leaves, all told of forgiveness,
melancholy, and peace.
The lady with the dog: and other stories
By Anton Pavlovich Chekhov

Outsidea high wind was driving the fallen leaves
in swirls and eddies, and as Abel crossed the road to
the mill, he smelt the sharp autumn scent of the rot-
ting mould under the trees. Frost still sparkled on
the bright green grasses that had overgrown the
sides of the mill-race, and the poplar log over the
stream was as wet as though the dancing shallows
had skimmed it. Over the motionless wheel the
sycamore shed its broad yellow leaves into the brook,
where they fluttered downward with a noise that
was like the wind in the tree-tops.
The miller of Old Church
By Ellen Anderson Gholson Glasgow

But while I wonder thus the
rain suddenly ceases, the wind, as if weary of
striving, tired of destroying, lulls to a calm,
the gloomy pall of cloud above grows thin in
places, and a palid moon peeps through. A
delicious autumn scent arises from the storm-
beaten plants, and also an aroma of hope. It
will be a fine day to-morrow, and perhaps the
crops are not so much damaged as we feared.
Sea spray
By Frank Thomas Bullen

They were soon far into the wood, with the western
sky dwindling between the innumerable pillars of the trees.
It began to be dark and utterly silent save for the rustle of
the dead leaves as they went, and the shrilling chafe of bridle
or scabbard, or the snort of the great horse. Wherever the
eye turned the forest piers stood straight and solemn as the
columns in a hypostyle hall in some Eygptian temple. The
fretwork of boughs roofed them in with hardly a glimmering
through of the darkening sky above. There was a pungent
autumn scent on the air that seemed to rise like the incense
of years that had fallen to decay on the brown flooring of
the place, and there was no breath or vestige of a wind.
Uther and Igraine
By Warwick Deeping

The smell of the burning rubbish heaps —
I the penetrating November smell —
spread up from the clearings and filled
the chilly, windless evening air. It seemed a sort
of expression of the cold sky, those pale steel^ray
and sea-green wastes, deepening into sharp straight
bands of orange and smoke colour along the far
horizon. It seemed equally an expression of the
harsh, darkening upland pastures, dotted with
ragged stumps and backed by ragged forests. It
was the distinctive autumn smell of the backwoods
settlements, that smell which, taken into the blood
in childhood, can never lose its potency of magic,
its power over the most secret springs of memory
and longing.
The watchers of the trails: a book of animal life
By Sir Charles George Douglas Roberts

A mellow September sunset gilded the birch copses
and lighted up the red trunks of the pines that crowned
the hill; a light breeze, scented with the ripe autumn
bouquet of the woods, swept the leaves, which were yet
crisp and dry, in fantastic dances along the road. The
river, a mere brook, but deep and swift, was now rushing
angrily through a rocky channel below and sent up a hol-
low roar. The rooks were hovering over their nests in a
black cloud, and their hoarse cawing was borne fitfully
on the wind. A flock of wild geese, flying southward,
passed overhead with their weird, clanging cry.
The Hon. Miss Ferrard
By May Laffan

As the train was speeding Fred Conrad to the state penitentiary
on a warm afternoon in the late autumn, the smell of
the freshly-plowed soil rose to his nostrils. Fred had frequently
ridden on trains through beautiful fields, but never
before had the odor of the soil seemed so sweet and balmy.
He drank deep of the breeze and it felt good. It soothed him
and lifted his despair. . . . But there was more than sweet-
ness and balm in the breeze that swept across the open, soft
earth. Language seemed to emanate from it and speak to
Fred, telling him of great wonders that hitherto had remained
unknown to him. It told of vast plains and of a wide world
where he had never set foot. He listened to the breeze and
his heart seemed to be knitting together — healing. Yes,
life was beautiful — and he would not surrender the smallest
claim to life. . . . The sentence which he had received that
morning no longer seemed so formidable — he would over-
come it • . . And at home things would order themselves
somehow until he got back. . . . And then — when he got
back — he would be a wiser man. . . . The freshly-plowed
fields were shedding a new light upon life and its prob-
lems. ...
The house of Conrad
By Elias Tobenkin

The distant plash of the tide upon the beach came
vaguely borne upon the wings of a wind that rustled
among the lime tree leaves of Squire Watson's new
plantation on North Street, and freighting itself with
odors of dulce and kelp and such wild scents as are
most sweet to dwellers by the sea, added as a tribute to
the fair girl waiting to welcome his toying fingers in
her hair, a hundred delicate breaths of autumn flowers
and ripened fruit and honey-combs, and that strange,
pungent, intoxicating, yet saddest of odors, that seems
the very breath of early autumn, the smell of dying
grass, and falling leaves, and shrinking sap, the fragrant
dying kiss of summer.
Dr. LeBaron and his daughters: a story of the old colony
By Jane Goodwin Austin

There is nothing more interesting to watch all
the year through than the life of the trees. When
you come back to school in September, the shade
in the hot days and the green grass make the
beginning of work much easier; and the change of
color from green to red or yellow is a joy each
day. Then, when the falling leaves cover the side-
walks and rustle under your feet and the queer
autumn smell comes up, you begin to think of
the pleasures of winter. When the leaves are all
gone, the tracery of the gnarled branches makes a
charming picture against the sky, and if they are
covered with furry snow or glittering ice, they are
wonderful.
Our Minnesota: a history for children
By Hester McLean Pollock

Vetiver/Night Queen(Cestrum nocturnum) codistillation

Vetiver/Night Queen(Cestrum nocturnum) codistillation

Images of Night Queen/Cestrum nocturum


The codistillation of vetiver and night queen provides a light brownish-yellow oil displaying a full, fresh, rich, sweet, floral, honeyed bouquet with a delicate balsamic/fruity undertone. The overall effect is very ambrosial and exotic.
The tenacity is very good.

Blends well with algaia odorata abs; allspice abs; ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs; araucaria eo; artemisia annua; balsam peru eo and abs; bakul attar; basil, holy eo and co2; beeswax abs; benzoin abs; bois de rose/rosewood eo; ; carnation abs; cassie abs; carrot seed eo, co2 and abs; chameli attar and ruh(jasmin grandiflorum); chamomile, blue eo, co2 and abs; chamomile, english eo; chamomile morocco eo and abs; clove bud eo, co2 and abs; combava petitgrain eo; coriander eo, co2 and abs; costus root eo and co2; davana eo and co2; frangipani abs; fir balsam abs; genda attar; guaicawood eo; gulhina attar; helichyrsum eo and abs; henna leaf co2; jasmin grandiflorum abs; jasmin sambac abs; jonquil abs; kadam attar; lawang eo; lavander eo, co2 an abs; mimosa abs; narcissus abs; orange blossom abs; neroli eo; orris root eo, co2 and abs; petitgrain eo's; rosa damasena eo, co2 and abs; rosa alba eo and abs; sandalwood eo, co2 and abs; tagetes eo ad abs; tuberose attar and abs; vanilla co2 and abs; ylang extra and ylang abs

In natural perfumery can be used in high class floral perfumes; sacred essences; oriental bouquets; fougere; chypre; and garland perfumes

Vetiver/Gardenia(Gardenia jasminoides) codistillation

Vetiver/Gardenia(Gardenia jasminoides) codistillation


Gardenia jasminoides images


Fresh, penetrating, warm, sweet, heavy, exotic, floral, spicy bouquet with a green, earthy undertone.It takes 2-3 minutes on the perfumers strip before one begins to perceive the richness and power of its overall bouquet. The room in which it is kept will gradually be filled with its sweet, spicy radiance. As the dryout continues the high peak of the exotic penetrating floral spiceness softens and takes on a soft sweet balsamic odor

Blends well with ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs; angelia seed eo and co2; angelica root eo and co2; anise, star eo and co2; basil eo and abs; benzoin abs; bois de rose eo; cabreuva eo; cedarwood eo and abs; champa attar and abs; cistus eo and abs; citrus oils; costus root co2; cumin eo, co2 and abs; frankincense eo, co2 and abs; frangipani abs; galbanum eo, co2 and abs; geranium eo, co2 and abs; ginger eo, co2 and abs; jasmin grandiflorum, sambac and auriculatum abs and ruh(chameli, motia and juhi); karo karounde abs; kewda ruh and attar; labdanum eo and abs; lavender eo, co2 and abs; lavindin eo and abs; mastic/lentisque eo and abs; lovage root abs; opoponax eo and abs; petitgrain eo's(mandarin, combava, bigarade, etc); rosa damascena and r. alba eo, co2 and abs; sandalwood eo, co2 and abs; styrax eo and abs; tagetes eo and abs; tonka bean abs; tuberose attar and abs; vanilla co2 and abs; ylang abs and eo; zravetz eo and abs

In natural perfumery can be used in high class florals; tropical bouquets; oriental perfumes; garland perfumes; Hawaiian essences

Ruh Kewda(Pandanus odoratissimus)/traditional distillation India



Ruh Kewda(Pandanus odoratissimus)/traditional distillation India

The pale white essential oil of Ruh Kewda displays an intense, sharp, high-pitched sweet floral(hyacinth/gardenia like) note with a delicate honeyed, green undertone. As the intensity of the topnote subsides the fresh, tropical, sweet, spicy, honeyed, floral note becomes more rounded and soft

Blends well with ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs; amberi attar; amyris eo; angelica root eo, co2 and abs; angelica seed eo; artemsia eo's; beeswax abs; benzoin abs; cabreuva eo; cananga eo; chamomile, blue, english and moroccan; champa abs; cistus eo and abs; citrus oils; clary sage eo and abs; elemi eo and abs; fir balsam abs; frangipani abs; frankincense eo, co2 and abs; galangal eo; galbanum eo, co2 and abs; ginger eo, co2 and abs; hay abs; helchrysum eo and abs; hyssop eo and co2; jasmin absolutes and ruhs; jonquil abs; labdanum eo and abs; lemon balm eo, co2 and abs; lemon verbena eo and abs; lovage root eo and abs; mastic eo and abs; musk black attar; narcissus abs; neroli eo; opoponax eo and abs; orange flower abs; osmanthus abs; petitgrain eo's(mandarin, combava, bigarade, etc); rose eo, co2 and abs; saffron abs and co2; sandalwood eo, co2 and abs; styrax eo and abs; tagetes eo and abs; tonka bean abs; tuberose abs and attar; vanilla abs and co2; vetiver eo, co2 and abs; violet leaf abs; ylang eo and abs; zdravetz eo and abs

In natural perfumery is used in sacred perfumes; high class florals, culinary perfumes, musk bases(trace), amber bases(trace), incense bouquets, oriental bases

Ruh Juhi(Jasminum auriculatum)-Traditional Distillation India

Ruh Juhi(Jasminum auriculatum)-Traditional Distillation India

The light yellow oil of Ruh Juhu present a fresh, sweet, fruity, juicy, floral bouquet with a fine green herbaceous/balsamic undertone. The ethereal fruity/floral note continues deep into the dryout which has good tenacity.

Blends well with a wide range of materials including ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs; amber eo; araucaria eo; balsam peru eo and abs; balsam tolu eo and abs; balsam copaiba; beeswax abs; benzoin abs; broom abs; cabreuva eo; cananga eo; chamomile, blue eo and abs; chamomile english eo; chamomile wild morocco eo and abs; champaca, golden abs and attar; champaca white flower eo co2; citrus eo's; fir balsam abs; flouve eo and abs; frangipani abs; frankincense eo, co2 and abs; elemi eo and abs; guaicawood eo; hay abs; helichryum eo and abs; henna leaf co2; hop eo and co2; jasmin sambac abs and ruh; jasmin auriculatum abs and ruh; lavindin abs and eo; lavender eo and abs; lemon balm eo and abs; lemon verbena eo and abs; massoia bark eo and co2; mate absolute; mimosa abs;muhuhu eo; neroli eo; orange blossom abs; osmanthus abs; petitgrain eo's; rosa damascena, co2 and eo and abs; rose centifolia abs; rosa bourbonia abs; rosa alba eo and co2; sandalwood eo, co2 and abs; tea black absolute; tonka bean abs; tuberose abs and attar; vanilla abs and co2; vetiver eo, co2 and abs; violet leaf abs; ylang eo, co2 and abs


In natural perfumery used in high class floral, garland perfumes, sacred blends, tropical bouquets, chypre, oriental bouquets

Ruh Motia(Jasminum sambac)/Traditional Distillation India

Ruh Motia(Jasminum sambac)/Traditional Distillation India


In India there is a centuries old tradition of distilling several aromatic plants to produce what is called a Ruh or pure essence. The equipment for preparing the Ruh is the same as used as for attars-that is copper distilling and receiving vessels connected by a bamboo pipe that is totally encased with a thick cord(for insulation) made of a local type of grass. There is not condensor as is used in modern distillation, the aromatic steam generated by heating the water in which the aromatic plants sit passing directly through the bamboo pipe into the receiver which itself is sitting in a cool water bath.
The amount of pure oil produced is very small and is done so over several days as the pure oil is siphoned off, the aroma ladened hydrosol from the first days distillation is added to the next days distillation, etc. In short it is a intricate process and requires great care and skill by those engaged in this time of traditional process.
The yield of pure oil is much less than an absolute produced from the same aromatic plant as it is free from the alcohol soluble waxes, etc that appear in the aforesaid absolute.

Ruh Motia(Jasmin sambac)
Ruh Motia is a light amber colored liquid displaying an intensely rich, sweet, radiant floral bouquet with a delicate tea-like, herbaceous undertone. It is almost entirely free of the indolic note that often appears in the absolute. In the dry-out phase a suave oriental sultriness appears.


Blends well with a wide range of materials including ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs; amber eo; araucaria eo; balsam peru eo and abs; balsam tolu eo and abs; balsam copaiba; beeswax abs; benzoin abs; broom abs; cabreuva eo; cananga eo; chamomile, blue eo and abs; chamomile english eo; chamomile wild morocco eo and abs; champaca, golden abs and attar; champaca white flower eo co2; citrus eo's; fir balsam abs; flouve eo and abs; frangipani abs; frankincense eo, co2 and abs; elemi eo and abs; guaicawood eo; hay abs; helichryum eo and abs; henna leaf co2; hop eo and co2; jasmin sambac abs and ruh; jasmin auriculatum abs and ruh; lavindin abs and eo; lavender eo and abs; lemon balm eo and abs; lemon verbena eo and abs; massoia bark eo and co2; mate absolute; mimosa abs;muhuhu eo; neroli eo; orange blossom abs; osmanthus abs; petitgrain eo's; rosa damascena, co2 and eo and abs; rose centifolia abs; rosa bourbonia abs; rosa alba eo and co2; sandalwood eo, co2 and abs; tea black absolute; tonka bean abs; tuberose abs and attar; vanilla abs and co2; vetiver eo, co2 and abs; violet leaf abs; ylang eo, co2 and abs


In natural perfumery used in high class floral, garland perfumes, sacred blends, tropical bouquets, chypre, oriental bouquets

Ruh Chameli(Jasminum grandiflorum/Traditional distillation-India

Ruh Chameli(Jasminum grandiflorum/Traditional distillation-India

In India there is a centuries old tradition of distilling several aromatic plants to produce what is called a Ruh or pure essence. The equipment for preparing the Ruh is the same as used as for attars-that is copper distilling and receiving vessels connected by a bamboo pipe that is totally encased with a thick cord(for insulation) made of a local type of grass. There is not condensor as is used in modern distillation, the aromatic steam generated by heating the water in which the aromatic plants sit passing directly through the bamboo pipe into the receiver which itself is sitting in a cool water bath.
The amount of pure oil produced is very small and is done so over several days as the pure oil is siphoned off, the aroma ladened hydrosol from the first days distillation is added to the next days distillation, etc. In short it is a intricate process and requires great care and skill by those engaged in this time of traditional process.
The yield of pure oil is much less than an absolute produced from the same aromatic plant as it is free from the alcohol soluble waxes, etc that appear in the aforesaid absolute.

Today there are six Ruhs being produced in this traditional way and they are distilled from the flowers of Rose/Rosa damascena, Kewda(Pandanus odoratissimus), Chameli(Jasminum grandiflorum), Motia(Jasminum sambac), Juhi(Jasminum auriculatum), and the roots of Khus(wild vetiver)/Vetiveria zizaniodes) The exact technique of distillation for each is slightly different and the odor profile for the Ruhs are different than from the corresponding absolute as well as in preparing the Ruh heat is used whereas in preparing the absolute very little heat is required. One can easily understand the difference in the olfactory relationship between the ruh and the absolute by means of exploring the aroma of a pure rose otto and its corresponding absolute. Each is delightful and beautiful in their own right but no one would ever mistake a rose otto for the absolute because the process of distillation captures a certain range of the aromatic molecules in the flower and the absolute another.
Because the yield of Ruh is much less than the absolute it is also of higher cost

Ruh chameli(Jasminum grandiflorum)
The light yellow oil of Ruh chameli displays intensely, rich, sweet, fresh, ethereal floral bouquet with a delicate fruity, balsamic, undertone. The soft, sweet, roundness of the dryout is beautiful and deep

Blends well with a wide range of materials including ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs; amber eo; araucaria eo; balsam peru eo and abs; balsam tolu eo and abs; balsam copaiba; beeswax abs; benzoin abs; broom abs; cabreuva eo; cananga eo; chamomile, blue eo and abs; chamomile english eo; chamomile wild morocco eo and abs; champaca, golden abs and attar; champaca white flower eo co2; citrus eo's; fir balsam abs; flouve eo and abs; frangipani abs; frankincense eo, co2 and abs; elemi eo and abs; guaicawood eo; hay abs; helichryum eo and abs; henna leaf co2; hop eo and co2; jasmin sambac abs and ruh; jasmin auriculatum abs and ruh; lavindin abs and eo; lavender eo and abs; lemon balm eo and abs; lemon verbena eo and abs; massoia bark eo and co2; mimosa abs;muhuhu eo; neroli eo; orange blossom abs; osmanthus abs; petitgrain eo's; rosa damascena, co2 and eo and abs; rose centifolia abs; rosa bourbonia abs; rosa alba eo and co2; sandalwood eo, co2 and abs; tonka bean abs; tuberose abs and attar; vanilla abs and co2; vetiver eo, co2 and abs; violet leaf abs; ylang eo, co2 and abs

In natural perfumery used in high class floral, garland perfumes, sacred blends, tropical bouquets, chypre, culinary perfumes

Boronia Melange(blend of natural isolates,labsolutes and essential oils)/France

Boronia Melange Absolute(blend of natural isolates, absolutes and essential oils)/France


Images of Boronia


For the past several years I have been trying to directly source a pure Boronia absolute(Boronia megastigma) from Tasmania or Australia but have not meant with any success. The extractors have informed me that they had pre-sold their entire production.

Recently one of our colleagues in France began to offer a Boronia Melange Absolute which is a totally natural blend of absolutes and essential oils which closely match the color, texture and aroma of the pure absolute. The Boronia Melange Absolute is a dark green viscous liquid with a suave fruity, green-herbaceous, coumarinic aroma with a delicate warm, floral-balsamic, tea-like undertone. The rich fruity-floral note predominates in the dry-out phase

Blends well with bergamot eo; bois de rose eo; broom abs;cassie abs; chamomile, blue eo, co2 and abs; chamomile, english/roman eo and abs; chamomile, wild morocco eo and abs; citrus eo's; costus eo and co2; cyperus/nagarmotha eo and co2; elemi eo and abs; fir balsam abs; helichrysum eo and abs; henna leaf co2; jasmin abs and ruh; jonquil abs; karo karounde abs; mate abs; mimosa abs; orris root eo, co2 and abs; orange flower abs; petitgrain eo's(mandarin, combava, lemon etc); sage clary abs and eo; tagetes eo and abs; violet leaf abs; ylang absoltue

In natural perfumery is used in culinary perfumes; herbal bouquets; high class florals; chypres; fougere; new mown hay

Juniper berry(Juniperus communis)/India wild harvest

Juniper berry(Juniperus communis)/India wild harvest

Juniper berry oil from India is a clear liquid displaying a green, punguent resinous/coniferous odor with a sweet, balsamic woody undertone.

Blends well with ambrette seed eo, co2 and abs; agarwood eo and co2; amyris eo; artemisia eo's; bay leaf eo; benzoin abs; birch tar eo; birch, sweet eo; camphor, white eo; canaga eo; carrot seed eo, co2 and abs; cardamon eo, co2 and abs; cedar eo's and abs; cistus eo and abs; citrus eo's; cypress eo and abs; elemi eo and abs; fir needle eo's and abs; frankincense eo, co2 and abs; galangal eo; galbanum eo, co2 and abs; labdanum eo and abs; lavender eo, co2 and abs; lavindin eo and abs; laurel leaf eo and abs; lovage root eo and co2; marjoram eo; mastic eo and abs; myrrh eo, co2 and abs; muhuhu eo; nutmeg eo, co2 and abs; oakmoss abs; oregano eo and co2; pine eo's and abs; rosemary eo, co2 and abs; sage clary eo and abs; sage eo and co2; savory eo; spruce eo and abs; thyme eo, co2 and abs; vetiver eo, co2 and abs

In natural perfumery used in forest notes; sacred perfumes, amber bases, incense accords, colgnes, chypres, fougeres, spice notes