Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Opoponax/Sweet Myrrh(Commiphora erythraea) eo/Ethiopia(wild harvest)



Olfactory qualities of Opoponax/Sweet Myrrh(Commiphora erythraea)/Ethiopia(wild harvest)
The pale yellow oil oil displays an intensely sweet, rich balsamic, light, fresh aroma topnote with a spicy warm, powdery-resinous floral undertone. The tenacity is quickly filling the room with its complex resinous bouquet. It has a commanding presence and its aromatic aura remains distincly imprinted in the atmosphere for hours after it has established itself.

Blends well with agarwood eo; amberi attar; ambrette seed eo, co2 nd abs; anise eo; anise star eo and co2; artemisia oils; balsam peru eo and abs; basil eo's; boronia abs; bergamot eo; benzoin abs; birch sweet eo; birch tar eo; cade eo; calamus eo and co2; cananga eo; cassie abs; cedar leaf eo; champa abs; choya nakh; choya ral; choya loban; cistus eo and abs; clary sage eo and abs; coriander eo and co2; costus eo,co2 and abs; davana eo, co2 and abs; fennel eo and co2; fir oils; frankincense eo, co2 and abs; galbanum eo, co2 an abs; hyssop eo and co2; kewda ruh and attar; labdanum eo and abs; lime essential oil; lemon eo; lovage eo and co2; mimosa abs; myrrh eo, co2 and abs; neroli eo; orris root eo, co2 and abs; osmanthus abs; patchouli eo, co2 and abs; pne oils; sage eo and co2; shamama attar; tangerine eo; tangerine essence eo; vanilla co2 and abs; vetiver eo, co2 and abs; ylang eo and abs; yuzu eo and abs

In perfumery is used in leather bases, fougeres, incense bouquets, oriental accords, forest notes, heavy florals
It is one of the oils that when used in a composition must be done so sparingly because its power is easily underestimated(like galbanum eo, cinnamon bark eo, ambrette seed abs) One may not notice its impact immediately but after several days-if the amount added is to much, one may find that it has taken on a dominant role which one never intended


Links for Opoponax

Wikipedia article on opoponax
Perfume profile of Opoponax
OLIBANUM (FRANKINCENSE), MYRRH AND OPOPANAX RESINS AND OILS
Opoponax essential oil

Opoponax in literature

Music, surely, was the art nearest akin to odour. A superb and subtle chord floated about him; it was composed of vervain, opoponax, and frangipane. He could not conceive of a more unearthly triad. It was music from Parsifal. Through the mists that were gathering he savoured a fulminating bouquet of patchouli, musk, bergamot, and he recalled the music of Mascagni. Brahms strode stolidly on in company with new-mown hay, cologne, and sweet peas. Liszt was interpreted as ylang-ylang, myrrh, and maréchale; Richard Strauss, by wistaria, oil of cloves, chypre, poppy, and crab-apple.
VISIONARIES
BY
JAMES HUNEKER

The afternoon was as balmy as a day in June, and to complete the simile of the old song, he had put on a blue frock-coat, dispensing with an overcoat, after sending Adolf down three times to make sure that there was not the least suspicion of east in the wind; and the frock-coat was buttoned so tightly around his personable form, that, if the buttons did not shine, they might pardonably have done so. Majestic on the pavement he fitted on a pair of dog-skin gloves; with his large bell-shaped top hat, and his great stature and bulk he looked too primeval for a Forsyte. His thick white hair, on which Adolf had bestowed a touch of pomatum, exhaled the fragrance of opoponax and cigars—the celebrated Swithin brand, for which he paid one hundred and forty shillings the hundred, and of which old Jolyon had unkindly said, he wouldn't smoke them as a gift; they wanted the stomach of a horse!
The Forsyte Saga, Complete, by John Galsworthy

'These are the cannisters where I keep my raw stuff' he said, pointing to the tine canisters ranged on shelves. They stood hand in hand reading the names of the lables/
'Ambergris--that's the name of a scent I bottle,' she said with a little latugh/ 'I used lavender ribbon for that. And orris--that's the powder. Don't they have queer names? Opopona, that always makes me laugh.'
They laughed together over opoponax.
'And there's name out of Scripture,' she said, 'frankincense and myrrh.'
He took down the tine of benzoin, and made her smell it, shaking some of the brittle stuff into the palm of her hand; crumpling up her hand into a cup, and guiding it now to her nose and then own. They compared their tastes; 'I think this sort smells nicest.' she said to him, graveling holding out her cupped hand, but he would not agree, after bending over with the deliberation of a practiced critic, and added a little storax, which, he said, brought out the pungency of the storax.
The Dragon in Shallow Waters
By Victoria Sackville-West

"That is the politest gentleman I ever saw in all my life! said one of the girls.
"And what a curious perfume he had in pocket handkerchief, or something!" says another.
"Well, now I though," said the youngest of them all, "that it smelt like brimestone!"
Then the other girls made game of her, and told her she knew nothing of the scents in used in fashionable society; so she had to give in(in being the custom to give in when other people do not agree with you) and confess that it might have musk, or patchouli, or frangipanni, or millefluers, or sweet opoponax, or eau-de-cologne. But they all agreed that it could not have been lavender, because it was vulgar not very expensive.
Lilliput legends,
By William Brighty Rands

The air was hot and heavy with the smell of the dust of
ages which had gathered in the nooks and crannies of this
dull and drabby room. It mingled with irritating unpleas-
antness with the scent of opoponax or heliotrope that
emanated from lace handkerchiefs, and with the pungent
odours of smelling salts ostentatiously held to delicate
noses.
THE HEART OF A WOMAN
BY
BARONESS ORCZY

The conversation was here interrupted by the appearance of the priest, a
large fat man, whose new, thick-soled boots creaked as he ascended the
steps of the altar. He was preceded by two boys dressed in white and
black surplices, who rang little brass bells furiously; a great
trampling of feet was heard, and the peasants came into the church,
coughing and grunting with monotonous, animal-like voices; and the
sour odour of cabin-smoked frieze arose--it was almost visible in the
great beams of light that poured through the eastern windows; whiffs
of unclean leather, mingled with a smell of a sick child; and Olive
and May, exchanging looks of disgust, drew forth cambric
pocket-handkerchiefs, and in unison the perfumes of white rose and eau
d'opoponax evaporated softly.
MUSLIN
By
GEORGE MOORE


After a time my troubled spirit grew calmer, as I
sat th%re inhaling the insidious breath of Tonquin
musk, the fragrance of attar of roses, the sweetness
of Indian spikenard and the stinging pungency of
myrrh, opoponax ,and ihlang-ylang. Fainfly I could
detect the perfume which I have always comited
the most exquisite of all save one — ^that delightful
preparation of Jasmine peculiarly Egyptian. But
the mystic breath of frankincense and erotic fumes
of ambergris alike left me unmoved ; for amid these
odorsy through which it has always seemed to me that
that of cedar runs thematically, I sought in vain for
the hint of '^Breath of Allah.''
TALES OF
SECRET EGYPT
By sax ROHMER

She pressed her handkerchief to her eyes, and exhaled over his a cloud of the perfume she habitually used. The discreet delicacy of the iris was overpowered by the sharp sweetnes of the opoponax, so that, half suffocated by the pungent odour of the atmosphere around her, he made for the window.
The undying past
By Hermann Sudermann




Monday, June 15, 2009

Jasmin sambac co2 select extract/China non-sprayed




Images of Jasminum sambac


There is something about jasmine that captures with special intensity the incandescence and luminosity, the simplicity and innocence of childhood. Is it its starlike whiteness? Is it the trembling delicacy of its blossom hovering over its stem and leaves almost like a dream? Is it its ephemeral beauty, its long-lasting sweet fragrance, its generous yielding of flowers every single day of summer? Whatever it is, there¹s something about the jasmine that takes me to places where I have to leave words behind, to the places where I have left my childhood, places that continue to invade my dreams ­ in the setting of my earliest memories. In my past. There, there is jasmine; plenty of it; in abundance; in profusion. I grew up with it. The hot summer sun. Dust in the air. And suddenly, the jasmine. Like fresh snow; like a mind untainted by questions. Like certainty.¹ Farzaneh Milani, Iranian author

Olfactory qualities of Jasmin sambac CO2 select extract/China(nonsprayed)

The Jasmin sambac co2 select extract is clear flowable liquid capturing the beautiful delicate sweet floral fruity topnotes of the Jasmin sambac flowers as they began to release their lovely fragrance into the air of a South Indian evening between 9-12 PM.
The absolute of Jasmin sambac is also lovely but it displays more of the heavier sultry indolic oriental floral heartnote of the flower than this unusual fresh top note. This soft beautiful floral/fruity note continues well into the dry-out where it is complemented with a sweet deep balsamic bouquet. The freshness and delicacy of the aroma remain present at all stages of its aromatic life. I feel that a combination of 25-40% of the co2 extract would work wonderfully with a well extracted absolute of the flowers.


Blends well with ambretee eo, co2 and abs; amyris eo; artemisia annua eo; bakul attar and abs; beeswax absolute; benzoin absolute; bergamot eo; bois de rose eo; cabreuva eo; champa attar and abs; clary sage eo and abs; clove bud eo, co2 and abs; coconut abs; copiaba balsam eo; coriander eo and co2; currant black abs; davana eo, co2 and abs; fennel seed eo and co2;frangipani abs; frankincense eo, co2 and abs; ginger eo, co2 and abs; ginger lily abs; henna leaf abs and co2; hyssop eo and co2; glanagal eo; jasmin auriculatum abs; jasmin grandiflorum abs; karo karounde abs; lavender eo, co2 and abs; lemon eo; lime essence eo; lime eo; magnolia lily co2; mimosa abs; narcissus abs; orange, sweet eo; orange, bitter eo; orange, blood eo; orange blossom abs; neroli eo; patchouli eo, co2 ane abs; petitgrain eo's; rosa damascena abs and eo; rosa centifolia abs; rosa bourbonia abs; rosa odorata eo; rosa rugosa eo; tea, black abs and co2; tea, green co2 and abs; saffron co2; sandalwood eo, co2 and abs; siamwood eo; tonka bean abs; tuberose attar and abs; verbena eo and abs; violet leaf abs; ylang eo and abs; vetiver eo, co2 and abs

In perfumery is used in garland perfumes, oriental bouquets; tropical essences; sacred perfumes,incense bases, high class florals, geographical perfumes, culinary perfumes, tea creations

Interesting facts about Jasminum sambac/Motia/Sampaguita/Pikake/Arabian jasmine

1. It is the national flower of the Philippines, adopted by its government in 1937.
In the Philippines, the flowers are gathered and strung into leis, corsages and crowns or its oils distilled and sold in stores, streets, and outside churches. The garlands may be used to welcome guests, or as an offering or adornment in religious altars. It symbolizes purity and love.
2. In Indonesia, the flower symbolizes purity, eternal love and nobility. It also symbolizes the beauty of a girl. The flower is commonly used in religious or cultural ceremony especially in Java and Bali. It is nicknamed puspa bangsa (nation flower or people flower) by the government.
3. These are the flowers which are used in traditional Thai cuisine to scent sweets. The flowers are steeped in a covered container of water overnight. The strained water is used to extract coconut milk from freshly grated coconuts, or to cook tapioca flour and sugar for small, jelly-like sweets.
4. The production of jasmine tea is quite interesting. It is important to begin with high quality green tea - tea that has been produced between the middle of March and the middle of May. Equally important for jasmine tea are fine jasmine blossoms - flowers that bloom between the 1st of May and the end of May (these have the most intense aroma). Traditionally layers of jasmine blossoms were placed between fine green tea. In time the scent of the jasmine permeated the tea. Today, hot air is passed through the jasmine blossoms and then filtered through the tea so that the blossoms can be used more than once. The exhausted blossoms are then used to decorate the tea. Produced in both China and Taiwan, jasmine tea yields a cup with all the concentrated heady bouquet of a garden in bloom.
5.Sampaguita, a Spanish term, comes from the Pilipino words "sumpa kita," which means "I promise you." It is a pledge of mutual love. In early days, a young couple exchanged sampaguita necklaces much like a bride and groom exchange wedding rings nowadays. To this day, garlands of sampaguita are offered to dignitaries and special guests.
6. It was said that a Chinese emperor of the Sung dynasty (960-1279 AD) had Jasmine in his palace grounds so he could enjoy its fragrance. In the 1400s, Jasmine was planted for kings of Afghanistan, Nepal and Persia.
7. In India some varieties are used as religious offerings symbolizing divine hope. The Hindus string the flowers together as neck garlands for honoured guests. The flowers of one of the double varieties ("Belle of India") are held sacred to Vishnu and are used as votive offerings in Hindu religious ceremonies.


Jasmin sambac/Arabian jasmine/Pikake/Sampaguita in literature
The flower markets blaze with many-coloured roses, tons of gardenias and a wealth of white heavy-scented flowers, such as tuberoses and Arabian jasmine. All the spices of the East, in fact, seem breathing from these mounds of blossom, as well as from gums and essences distilled from them in archaic fashion. Transparent sachets, filled with the scented petals [22]of ylang-ylang, fill the air with intoxicating sweetness, and outside the busy passer, a frangipanni-tree, the native sumboya or "flower of the dead," just opening a white crowd of golden-hearted blossoms to the sun, adds another wave of perfume to the floral incense, steaming from earth to sky with prodigal exuberance.Through the Malay Archipelago, by Emily Richings

Court within court, garden beyond garden, reception halls, private
apartments, slaves' quarters, sunny prophets' chambers on the roofs and
baths in vaulted crypts, the labyrinth of passages and rooms stretches
away over several acres of ground. A long court enclosed in pale-green
trellis-work, where pigeons plume themselves about a great tank and the
dripping tiles glitter with refracted sunlight, leads to the fresh gloom
of a cypress garden, or under jasmine tunnels bordered with running
water; and these again open on arcaded apartments faced with tiles and
stucco-work, where, in a languid twilight, the hours drift by to the
ceaseless music of the fountains.
In Morocco, by Edith Wharton

They halted at a ruined palace in the desert. The Arabs led him through the various rooms, explaining that each was scented with a different perfume. Although Lawrence could smell nothing, they claimed that one room had the odor of ambergris—another of roses—and a third of jasmine;—at length they came to a large and particularly ruinous room. "This," they said, "has the finest scent of all—the smell of the wind and the sun." I last saw Colonel Lawrence in Paris, whither he had brought the son of the King of the Hedjaz to attend the Peace Conference.
War in the Garden of Eden, by Kermit Roosevelt

Links to Jasminum sambac/Sampaguita/Pikake


Varieties of Jasmin sambac and growing in the home
Book on Jasminum sambac
Floral volatiles of Jasminum sambac
Jasmin sambac in Indian medicine
Jasmin sambac in Chinese Tea